
Removing Under Bonnet Strengthening
#1
Posted 27 December 2016 - 08:14 PM
I don't really want to affect the paint on 'outside' of the bonnet.
#2
Posted 27 December 2016 - 08:39 PM
they are spot welded on
#3
Posted 27 December 2016 - 08:50 PM
I removed the bracing on steel bonnet for some clearance.
It is very very flimsy now. I wouldn't dare use it
#4
Posted 27 December 2016 - 08:59 PM
If you consider doing this , it would be best to secure it in all 4 corners
possibly with a rubber foot on the inner wing about half way along the wing
in the middle of the scuttle & the centre of the slam panel
consider it a cover rather than a bonnet
as above a considerable amount of strength will be removed
you may have to put something in the middle to stop vibration
sadly not a lot of weight saved - but sometimes every little helps
Edited by sledgehammer, 27 December 2016 - 09:00 PM.
#5
Posted 27 December 2016 - 09:16 PM
#6
Posted 27 December 2016 - 09:28 PM
I removed the bracing on steel bonnet for some clearance.
It is very very flimsy now. I wouldn't dare use it
Hmm ok, I may try it on the spare bonnet before I commit to my good one! How did you go about removing it? And where was it welded?
If you consider doing this , it would be best to secure it in all 4 corners
possibly with a rubber foot on the inner wing about half way along the wing
in the middle of the scuttle & the centre of the slam panel
consider it a cover rather than a bonnet
as above a considerable amount of strength will be removed
you may have to put something in the middle to stop vibration
sadly not a lot of weight saved - but sometimes every little helps
It defiantly will be secured down well! Can't really do the inner wing or slam panel things either

If it wasn't needed the original designers would not have included it. The mini wasn't exactly over engineered.
Not fussed about what the designers included to be honest
#7
Posted 27 December 2016 - 09:45 PM
It's spot welded in the corners on the bonnet return lip, look for small round indentations and use a spot weld drill bit as it's neater that way. If you use a drill bit you will probably skid off centre of the weld and end up drilling a bigger hole.
http://www.halfords....CFe8K0wod4BEH7Q
Or,
http://www.ebay.co.u...98615505&crdt=0
Both are slightly different in design but work well.
Edited by neal, 27 December 2016 - 09:49 PM.
#8
Posted 27 December 2016 - 10:21 PM
If it's for weight saving you could put some holes in them with a hole saw. It won't save much but it could look good.
#9
Posted 27 December 2016 - 11:13 PM
If your really bothered about weight saving, just swap it for a single skin fiberglass one.
#10
Posted 28 December 2016 - 06:13 AM
^ This. The standard one will 'balloon' without the brace bars underneath as you drive at speed. Chances it will rip off and either hot your windscreen or get torn off and hit a car behind you.
#11
Posted 28 December 2016 - 11:17 AM
TMF member 'mad mk1' has done the same and his is a rather fast mini! 13 sec 1/4 mile

Edited by Will16, 28 December 2016 - 11:17 AM.
#12
Posted 28 December 2016 - 03:22 PM
As as for paint not matching on a glassfibre bonnet, that too is ridiculous if it is done properly. What WILL stand out like a sore thumb is the inevitable buckled, crumpled and rippled skin if you proceed with your plan.
I strongly recommend calculating how much performance increase you will actually get, and balance that against the problems.
Personally, if I was worried about weight saving to that extent, I would fit carbon fibre bonnet and boot lid, in their natural colour, so no need to worry about paint match. Or I would go on a diet. Most normal people can afford to lose more weight than a pair of bonnet stiffners.
#13
Posted 28 December 2016 - 07:17 PM
You haven't seen my paint

As for a diet, don't think I could loose much weight tbf!
#14
Posted 30 December 2016 - 04:59 PM
I run just a bonnet skin on my race car not lost it yet its got a pair of bonnet pins and 2 plates riveted to scuttle panel every little helps
#15
Posted 30 December 2016 - 09:24 PM
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