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How To Change Wiper Wrack Cable


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#1 Ntperry10

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Posted 01 January 2017 - 08:47 PM

Is it just as simple as removing wiper blades, releasing the cable from the motor, pulling he cable out, greasing new cable and pushing it back in?

Cheers

#2 jamesquintin

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Posted 01 January 2017 - 08:50 PM

pretty much...

 

You might want to remove the wheel houses and clean all the grease out of them.



#3 Ntperry10

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Posted 01 January 2017 - 09:09 PM

pretty much...
 
You might want to remove the wheel houses and clean all the grease out of them.


Lovely thanks that's tomorrow's little job sorted then

#4 alex-95

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Posted 01 January 2017 - 09:36 PM

Yep as above, I would remove the whole lot, clean out everything (inside the tubes, wiper motor, wheel boxes) and regrets. you may find the wheel boxes have corroded and may need renewing.



#5 Ntperry10

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Posted 01 January 2017 - 09:46 PM

Yep as above, I would remove the whole lot, clean out everything (inside the tubes, wiper motor, wheel boxes) and regrets. you may find the wheel boxes have corroded and may need renewing.


Good shout, the nipple has snapped of my original cable where it attaches on to the motor, il probably give it all a goood clean while I'm there

#6 Alice Dooper

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Posted 02 January 2017 - 12:02 PM

I did mine a few weeks ago. It well worth taking the whole lot out for a checkup, clean and regrease.

The securing threads on my wheelboxs were all corroded and I ended up replacing them too. I told it's very common that they corrode with being so exposed. I put a touch of wear resistant copper grease round them and the spindle in hope that it slows the inevitable again.

My cable was similarly knackered - got a new one that was for an old land rover, a good bit cheaper and just needed cut to the right length. Would be very easy to cut it too short.

Watch removing the drive tubes, someone had removed them on our car before and bent them a bit, took me ages trying to straighten them out.

An easy enough, enjoyable job and well worth doing.

#7 AlexMozza

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Posted 02 January 2017 - 02:09 PM

Its worth checking the thread on the wheel box whilst it's apart.
The thread can corrode fairly easily over time.

#8 tiger99

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Posted 02 January 2017 - 11:13 PM

Copper grease is not really suitable as a lubricant for moving parts. It's only use is to prevent things that rarely move, or move a tiny amount, from siezing.

I would suggest a Teflon based lubricant such as bicycle grease from Halfords will give better results. Don't ever use it on things that get really hot, and don't drop any on the exhaust.

It is fairly clean stuff and therefore also useful for seat runners, door hinges etc, but not for highly loaded components like valley joints and suspension pivots.




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