Edited by Gregd, 21 January 2017 - 02:41 PM.

Engine Steady Stuck Bolt
#1
Posted 21 January 2017 - 02:40 PM
#2
Posted 21 January 2017 - 03:04 PM
#3
Posted 21 January 2017 - 03:09 PM
#4
Posted 21 January 2017 - 03:35 PM
#5
Posted 21 January 2017 - 05:25 PM
If Red Ruby's suggestion doesn't work, get the car up on stands and using a long rod, you can - just - knock it from the bottom. Don't go 'Ape' on it though.
Edited by Moke Spider, 21 January 2017 - 05:25 PM.
#7
Posted 21 January 2017 - 06:04 PM
#8
Posted 21 January 2017 - 06:12 PM
http://www.minispare...c/BH605151.aspx
5/16"
Edited by nicklouse, 21 January 2017 - 06:14 PM.
#9
Posted 21 January 2017 - 06:39 PM
As 99.9999999999% of bolts on a Mini are imperial...http://www.minispare...c/BH605151.aspx
5/16"
Thanks for your help, much appreciated
#10
Posted 22 January 2017 - 02:55 PM
I finally got the the remains of the bolt and existing sleeve off, when I said an M8 bolt was loose in the sleeve it was because I had the wrong sleeves in, they where the ones for the bottom steady (to be replaced another day). I found a 50mm M8 shank bolt and unlock in the garage and it is a perfect fit. So.....the steady is back on boltoed up and the engine is now rock solid. The car now drives the best that it has done since we have owned it (18m), gear changes are smoother and there is no nasty clunking when setting of or accelerating. It was a complete pain in the arse but worth it.
#11
Posted 22 January 2017 - 04:44 PM
I know it isn't critical for this particular case, and I don't want to sound patronising, but mixing fasteners between metric and imperial can be externally frustrating down the line, if not for you then a future owner! I'd recommend changing it for the correct 5/16 UNF nut and bolt when it's convienient, should be much simpler now it's not siezed. Minispares fasteners are quite expensive, plenty of other places to get good quality imperial fasteners much cheaper.
#12
Posted 22 January 2017 - 06:04 PM
Good job on getting it fixed, will make a huge difference.
I know it isn't critical for this particular case, and I don't want to sound patronising, but mixing fasteners between metric and imperial can be externally frustrating down the line, if not for you then a future owner! I'd recommend changing it for the correct 5/16 UNF nut and bolt when it's convienient, should be much simpler now it's not siezed. Minispares fasteners are quite expensive, plenty of other places to get good quality imperial fasteners much cheaper.
Thanks for that, we needed to get it back on the road as it's my sons daily driver and I'm away all week after tomorrow. I'll order the right one and change it when we get a chance.
#13
Posted 22 January 2017 - 06:47 PM
Well thought I would give an update........
I finally got the the remains of the bolt and existing sleeve off, when I said an M8 bolt was loose in the sleeve it was because I had the wrong sleeves in, they where the ones for the bottom steady (to be replaced another day).
Odd as they are all the same sleeves.
#14
Posted 22 January 2017 - 09:55 PM
Well thought I would give an update........
I finally got the the remains of the bolt and existing sleeve off, when I said an M8 bolt was loose in the sleeve it was because I had the wrong sleeves in, they where the ones for the bottom steady (to be replaced another day).
Odd as they are all the same sleeves.
Hmmmmm....thought it was strange but just assumed the bolts were larger on the bottom steady
#15
Posted 23 January 2017 - 12:33 PM
My third Mini, 1984, had the thicker brackets that don't break as often, if at all, and had a standard 5/16" bolt with a sleeve.
By the way, the first had no lower steady and chewed it's exhausts quite regularly. And, if you have an early type subframe with the thin bracket, it is not hard to fabricate and weld in a second bracket with the steady bar bushes and sleeve sandwiched between. The subframe crossmember is thick enough that I was able to do it in situ with very little dismantling with a cheap arc welder.
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