9 replies to this topic

[TheOriginalMiniator]

This appears to be a fairly common problem, the shaft in the wok has seized.

 

However, my issue is slightly different from what ive read (i think)

 

 

The pedal is indeed solid in the up position, but by hand, i can squeeze the clutch arm/slave cylinder together and they return (although im not sure they are releasing complete to be fair).

When i put the car in gear and start her, she wants to move, if she'd enough kick from the battery. 

 

So from this i took that its not seized but theres actually a problem with the hydraulics themselves?

[nicklouse]

pin in wok seizing I would say is rare. pistons rusting in place is more common.  also a incorrectly fitted split pin rotating an stopping the pedal moving is quite common. check the clevis pin and split pin between pedal box and MC

[TheOriginalMiniator]

pin in wok seizing I would say is rare. pistons rusting in place is more common.  also a incorrectly fitted split pin rotating an stopping the pedal moving is quite common. check the clevis pin and split pin between pedal box and MC

 

That is next on my check list to be fair, it wasn't possible to check properly at the roadside last night lol.

 

It's also worth noting that the pedal took 3/4 presses before it went solid.

[Spider]

Could also be the flexible hose from the slave. When they swell up, which is difficult to determine from the outside, they act like a one way valve.

[nicklouse]

 

 

It's also worth noting that the pedal took 3/4 presses before it went solid.

 

defiantly hydro issues. seals or hose as above.

[TheOriginalMiniator]

Could also be the flexible hose from the slave. When they swell up, which is difficult to determine from the outside, they act like a one way valve.

 

I think the slave and the flexi is ok. when i compress the slave, fluid moves up into the master. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's also worth noting that the pedal took 3/4 presses before it went solid.

 

defiantly hydro issues. seals or hose as above.

 

 

Im hoping for just the pedal getting stuck under the dash, but likely to be the master though. Either new cylinder or ill replace the seals.

Edited by TheOriginalMiniator, 27 January 2017 - 09:44 AM.

[tiger99]

I would be surprised if it is the master, but this is a strange problem anyway so who knows? I would suggest not buying a new master just yet. Before getting into contortions in the footwell, try unbolting the master from the bulkhead and raising it slightly, taking care not to damage the pipe. I am thinking that maybe there is insufficient free play and the piston is not coming back far enough to uncover the reservoir port.

 

Check the pedal return spring too, when you are ready for some contortions. Check the brake pedal too, they share a spring. Both pedals should be pulling down on the pushrods when released.

 

But if in doubt, and the hydraulics are old, it is a good idea to replace all seals (assuming cylinder bores to have no scratches or corrosion) and the hose, to keep it reliable for another few years.

[Spider]

C

 

 

I think the slave and the flexi is ok. when i compress the slave, fluid moves up into the master. 

 

 

Im hoping for just the pedal getting stuck under the dash, but likely to be the master though. Either new cylinder or ill replace the seals.

 

 

Check with your foot off the pedal that the pedal 'hangs' off the Clevis on the Master Cylinder and isn't resting on the body. That'll do the same thing.

[TheOriginalMiniator]

Had another quick look.

 

Opened the bleed nipple on the slave, to release the pressure, no movement in the pedal.

 

I think loosened the master cylinder nuts, and the pedal moves now and lifts the master cylinder up.

 

 

Looking more and more likely to be the master. i noticed the master cylinder plunger is a bit corroded and the rubber seal is weeping.

[Ethel]

My guess is the slave cylinder. It doesn't return further than the arm on the wok pushes it so it can adjust itself for wear. \That's why you can push it back manually. The cylinder bore is exposed on the push rod side of the piston so they are prone to rust  stopping the piston being pushed further out if they've stood for any length of time. A simple check would be to use a small socket, or similar, to effectively lengthen the pushrod so the piston starts from further inside the slave.