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Clutch Pedal Won't Move


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#1 spursman66

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 08:54 PM

So I have started to restore an 89 mini flame 1000. Here's the problems and what I have tried.
1. Clutch pedal moves an inch and is solid, looks like someone has tried to force it as it appears slightly bent to the left
2. Put the car in gear, start the engine and there is no movement, engine starts as if in neutral.
3. Start engine and then put it in gear, nothing again, no movement as if it is still in neutral/clutch pedal depressed.
I've had a look at master cylinder, plenty of fluid, had a look at slave cylinder, that looks okay but don't really know what to do next. I have put loads of wd40 where the rod comes out of slave cylinder, still the same. Not sure where to go with it next, any suggestions. I have wedged the clutch pedal hard down overnight, to see if that loosens anything.

#2 nicklouse

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 09:00 PM

Is the slave in or out?

Sounds like it has corroded and then forced to move and now stuck there.

#3 spursman66

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 10:36 PM

The rod is out, probably about 3 inches from the slave cylinder

#4 Ethel

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 01:08 AM

Is it Verto? 

 

If the pedal's moving at all you ought to see movement from the slave. You could slip something thin inside, by the pushrod, as an indicator. Sounds like the clutch itself, if it behaves like it's in neutral, is there any gap between the throwout stop nut and the clutch cover?



#5 spursman66

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 01:26 PM

I sprayed a load of plus gas all around the rod coming out of the slave cylinder, left it a few minutes, tapped it fairly hard a few times and then got a length a scaffold pole and levered it back in. Pedal now works, can select gears and it drives fine. I now have a rolling driving Mini Racing Flame to restore. Woo hoo

#6 Scousemouse

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 02:15 PM

Good on ya.....  I was waiting for the old "WD 40 is not a penetrating fluid" rebuff, but I've always used it as such...and it works :D  :D

(contains fish oil) so it's good for Arthritus and creaky joints as well :ohno:  :proud:



#7 nicklouse

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 03:14 PM

Good on ya.....  I was waiting for the old "WD 40 is not a penetrating fluid" rebuff, but I've always used it as such...and it works :D  :D

(contains fish oil) so it's good for Arthritus and creaky joints as well :ohno:  :proud:

oh no it does not.



#8 MIGLIACARS

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 04:33 PM

 

Good on ya.....  I was waiting for the old "WD 40 is not a penetrating fluid" rebuff, but I've always used it as such...and it works :D  :D

(contains fish oil) so it's good for Arthritus and creaky joints as well :ohno:  :proud:

oh no it does not.

 

Just an old wife's tail



#9 tiger99

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 07:56 PM

Don't forget that the slave cylinder bore must be corroded and the seals damaged, so you will need a new slave cylinder as part of the restoration. The short term fix will certainly be very temporary.

 

In reality, you will need to renew or rebuild all the clutch and brake hydraulics anyway. That is common on any car more than a few years old.



#10 Scousemouse

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 09:58 PM

 

 

Good on ya.....  I was waiting for the old "WD 40 is not a penetrating fluid" rebuff, but I've always used it as such...and it works :D  :D

(contains fish oil) so it's good for Arthritus and creaky joints as well :ohno:  :proud:

oh no it does not.

 

Just an old wife's tail

 

Not gonna change my mind at my age.....same as my old wife.



#11 spursman66

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Posted 02 February 2017 - 01:37 PM

Cheers for all the advice chaps. I'm sure I'll be back for some more when I hit the next snag.




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