26 replies to this topic

[tiger99]

The taper must not protrude through the arm or the nut would not tighten properly, so a standard 3/8" nominal bore washer will be fine. I would be more concerned about using a soft washer, ie mild steel, as it would deform and possibly cause the problem. A proper washer for 8.8 bolts will not deform under load. The washers are often even harder, which is good as long as they are not brittle.

[Cooperman]

I have always used a standard commercial grade steel washer and a Nyloc nut. never had any problems in over 50 years of doing this.

Use a flat washer, a Nyloc nut, nip it up firmly, but not over-tight, and al will be well.

[BUT83]

Ok have taken the new steering arm off and dowels are fitted correctly and now in process removing rather rusty bolts on orginal drum hub steering arms to compare geometry. I will order the correct locking tabs and ditch the spring washers.

I will fit a new nyloc and plain steel washer on the track ends. I will also check the swivel hubs are torqued correctly.

Thanks to all and will update on my progress

[BUT83]

Ok, put original steering arms on, with locking tabs, and Tracking still the same. Made up a jig to measure toe and far too much so next stage to adjust tie track ends. One of the locking nuts is solid so left that soaking in wd40 and that's the next battle for tomorrow.

[Cooperman]

WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil, it is just a lubricant.

To help free off seized threads a penetrating oil such as 'Plus Gas' is needed. It that doesn't work use a blow torch to get some heat into it.

[papafoxtrot]

I want to jump in and add to this thread as I'm about to set the steering after rebuilding my entire front suspension on my 78' Mini 1000. I've got the steering wheel set at a "Straight" position. I understand the distances front and back on the front wheels need to be different for proper toe, but how do I set the first wheel to be considered "straight"? 

[gazza82]

Turn both track rods the same distance .. one in, one out ... or take the steering wheel off and reposition.

 

Or ask the tracking guy to do that (he should anyway!)

[papafoxtrot]

Turn both track rods the same distance .. one in, one out ... or take the steering wheel off and reposition.
 
Or ask the tracking guy to do that (he should anyway!)

I was hoping maybe there was a reference point one could use to set the first wheel (eg. X" from reference surface). Then the second wheel could be set with the proper toe. From there it could go to the tracking alignment for final set.

I guess I can set the first wheel measuring equally front & back from the front subframe.

[Cooperman]

You wind the track rods on exactly the same number of turns each side and, using two long straight pieces of timber, set them until the wheels are straight ahead and parallel. This gives a basic setting

Then get the car professionally tracked, making sure the adjustments are done by winding each track rod the same amount, and after that take the steering wheel of and centre it on the splines.

[papafoxtrot]

You wind the track rods on exactly the same number of turns each side and, using two long straight pieces of timber, set them until the wheels are straight ahead and parallel. This gives a basic setting

Then get the car professionally tracked, making sure the adjustments are done by winding each track rod the same amount, and after that take the steering wheel of and centre it on the splines.

 

Thanks. That makes sense to me. I thought you'd start at the steering wheel but I had it backwards as ending there is certainly easier.

 

Cheers

Paul_F

[tiger99]

You should use the centering facility on the steering rack. On the passenger side toeboard there is a blanking plug. Remove it, and the plug in the rack will be revealed. The design varied over the years but most are metal and just unscrew. I hear that some plastic ones are a push fit. Get a 6mm diameter rod (back end of a drill bit is ok), insert it and rotate the wheel till it locates in place. The rack is now centred.

 

It has to be centred before setting the tracking, however some people do it by counting turns of the wheel which is less accurate, and may result in slightly unequal turning circles in each direction, and bump steer.

 

I have heard that on some late models the centering facility was omitted, which is not a good thing. In that case, just do your best with turns of the wheel, or undo the rack gaiters at their inboard ends (oil will spill) and set the wheel for equal clearance between the back of each ball joint and the end of the rack tube.

 

If you centre the rack at home, and while the pin is in place centre the wheel on its splines, you can then go to the nearest tyre dealers and get them to set the toe on their accurate gauge with the wheel centred, as they may not be familiar with the centering process.

 

The centering hole must not be used for topping up the rack with oil.

[BUT83]

Thanks everyone thats me back up and running. Taking it to my local mini expert garage for him to get alignment computer checked just to make sure. Quite chuffed i have got this far, learnt a lot , have now got a few other gremlins to fix but keep things interesting, ha.