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Fitting New Ball Joints Difficulties!


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#1 1314cc

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Posted 02 April 2017 - 05:08 PM

Got the hub off so all done on bench. Done the lower ball joint easily. It's pretty snug but moves freely all ways by hand. Problem is with the upper one.I've followed forum advice to regards to lapping but still finding the assembled joint notchy in one direction. Do I need to do more lapping? Or am I doing something wrong? I did buy these ball joints on ebay from minimine.

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#2 Steve220

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Posted 02 April 2017 - 05:32 PM

Have you shimmed it to try and reduce the notch feeling?

#3 1314cc

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Posted 02 April 2017 - 05:34 PM

Just been searching forum and it seems that rovers most recent instruction on tightness is " between no nip and .003" end float. So obviously this means the joint shouldn't be tight anyway?

#4 Swift_General

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Posted 02 April 2017 - 05:44 PM

Just been searching forum and it seems that rovers most recent instruction on tightness is " between no nip and .003" end float. So obviously this means the joint shouldn't be tight anyway?


Correct. The joints should not be tight in any way. The way I do it is to shim the joint so I think it's about right, including a 3 thou shim under the nut. Then remove that shim and re tighten. If the joint starts to bind end float much have been less than 3 thou. If the joint is still loose it must have been more than 3 thou if that makes sense.

#5 1314cc

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Posted 02 April 2017 - 06:07 PM

So we're looking for freely moving by 1 finger in all ways? And no play between cap and ball? Previous threads recommended joint should be fairly tight to move. Rovers latest stipulation makes more sense! And if course regular greasing

#6 Swift_General

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Posted 02 April 2017 - 10:15 PM

Yes free moving. There may be a small amount if play by definition if you have end float, but certainly nothing to cause an issue. 'Fairly tight' is too tight!

#7 minimans

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Posted 02 April 2017 - 10:27 PM

You know since the sixties at the BMC dealer we were always taught to fit new ball joints to be a tight fit ie. you should be able to move the joint with a tap with the palm of your hand if it hurts it's too tight! when checking used joints it was to be set looser but with no play. Not sure what has happened in the fowlling 30 years too change that? maybe materials? but I will continue to set them up the same way as I've never had one fail or spin out of the hub which can happen if they were assembled too tight.



#8 Dusky

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Posted 03 April 2017 - 06:23 AM

I wonder, if set correctly, do they actually feel the same as normal cars ball joints?( Eh, joints wich don't need to be set/shimmed like this).
As I set mine to feel the same as those.

#9 1314cc

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Posted 03 April 2017 - 06:27 AM

I wonder, if set correctly, do they actually feel the same as normal cars ball joints?( Eh, joints wich don't need to be set/shimmed like this).
As I set mine to feel the same as those.


So what do modern cars feel like?

#10 pete l

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Posted 03 April 2017 - 08:09 AM

I still don't understand why they never changed to metro style hubs and ball  joints. 

 

These are just so outdated



#11 tiger99

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Posted 03 April 2017 - 12:08 PM

The reason for setting them looser is that there had been serious accidents caused by fatigue fracture of the ball pin when people set them up too tight. That is not entirely surprising.

Successive versions of the manual increasingly emphasise the need for "no nip" because the problem was still happening.

If one has a serious tight spot it has been badly manufactured and no amount of lapping will fix it. I strongly recommend only buying proper branded parts from a reputable source where safety is involved.

#12 pete l

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Posted 03 April 2017 - 12:31 PM

But what is a proper quality one ?

 

I bought some from somerfield that were "top quality" so Pete behind the counter told me, I now know this not to be the case because there are no signs of hardening of the metal.



#13 1314cc

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Posted 03 April 2017 - 03:52 PM

But what is a proper quality one ?
 
I bought some from somerfield that were "top quality" so Pete behind the counter told me, I now know this not to be the case because there are no signs of hardening of the metal.


I've ordered 2 sets from unipart. Hopefully they'll be better quality, I'll post my results!!

#14 1314cc

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Posted 03 April 2017 - 08:27 PM

So balljoints should be made from hardened steel, the ones I've been fiddling with can easily filed on all surfaces! Guess best place for these is the bin!

#15 robminibcy

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Posted 03 April 2017 - 08:34 PM

 

I wonder, if set correctly, do they actually feel the same as normal cars ball joints?( Eh, joints wich don't need to be set/shimmed like this).
As I set mine to feel the same as those.


So what do modern cars feel like?

 

I also set mine 'like a modern cars'. On my golf mk4 the new ball joints could be moved using a single finger but needed reasonable effort to do so.






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