Fitting New Ball Joints Difficulties!
#1
Posted 02 April 2017 - 05:08 PM
#2
Posted 02 April 2017 - 05:32 PM
#3
Posted 02 April 2017 - 05:34 PM
#4
Posted 02 April 2017 - 05:44 PM
Just been searching forum and it seems that rovers most recent instruction on tightness is " between no nip and .003" end float. So obviously this means the joint shouldn't be tight anyway?
Correct. The joints should not be tight in any way. The way I do it is to shim the joint so I think it's about right, including a 3 thou shim under the nut. Then remove that shim and re tighten. If the joint starts to bind end float much have been less than 3 thou. If the joint is still loose it must have been more than 3 thou if that makes sense.
#5
Posted 02 April 2017 - 06:07 PM
#6
Posted 02 April 2017 - 10:15 PM
#7
Posted 02 April 2017 - 10:27 PM
You know since the sixties at the BMC dealer we were always taught to fit new ball joints to be a tight fit ie. you should be able to move the joint with a tap with the palm of your hand if it hurts it's too tight! when checking used joints it was to be set looser but with no play. Not sure what has happened in the fowlling 30 years too change that? maybe materials? but I will continue to set them up the same way as I've never had one fail or spin out of the hub which can happen if they were assembled too tight.
#8
Posted 03 April 2017 - 06:23 AM
As I set mine to feel the same as those.
#9
Posted 03 April 2017 - 06:27 AM
I wonder, if set correctly, do they actually feel the same as normal cars ball joints?( Eh, joints wich don't need to be set/shimmed like this).
As I set mine to feel the same as those.
So what do modern cars feel like?
#10
Posted 03 April 2017 - 08:09 AM
I still don't understand why they never changed to metro style hubs and ball joints.
These are just so outdated
#11
Posted 03 April 2017 - 12:08 PM
Successive versions of the manual increasingly emphasise the need for "no nip" because the problem was still happening.
If one has a serious tight spot it has been badly manufactured and no amount of lapping will fix it. I strongly recommend only buying proper branded parts from a reputable source where safety is involved.
#12
Posted 03 April 2017 - 12:31 PM
But what is a proper quality one ?
I bought some from somerfield that were "top quality" so Pete behind the counter told me, I now know this not to be the case because there are no signs of hardening of the metal.
#13
Posted 03 April 2017 - 03:52 PM
But what is a proper quality one ?
I bought some from somerfield that were "top quality" so Pete behind the counter told me, I now know this not to be the case because there are no signs of hardening of the metal.
I've ordered 2 sets from unipart. Hopefully they'll be better quality, I'll post my results!!
#14
Posted 03 April 2017 - 08:27 PM
#15
Posted 03 April 2017 - 08:34 PM
I wonder, if set correctly, do they actually feel the same as normal cars ball joints?( Eh, joints wich don't need to be set/shimmed like this).
As I set mine to feel the same as those.
So what do modern cars feel like?
I also set mine 'like a modern cars'. On my golf mk4 the new ball joints could be moved using a single finger but needed reasonable effort to do so.
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