21 replies to this topic

[Spider]

But what is a proper quality one ?

 

 

The original types were.

 

No lapping needed, just take them form the box, shim, fit and grease. No lapping needed and nor should it be if they were quality joints.

 

<EDIT: There is no reference to lapping the ball joints in any of the factory manuals, because those joints didn't need lapping. They were finished at the point of manufacture.

My local friends are finding these days that when doing an Oil Change (5000 km / 3000 miles), the top ball joints also need replacing with what's currently available on the market. >

Edited by Moke Spider, 03 April 2017 - 08:41 PM.

[JBW]

I'm planning on using Delphi ones when i replace mine in the future, at least they're a known brand with quality control (I hope !). The ones I fitted last year were cheap rubbish.

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

[1314cc]

Got a set of delphi balljoints, what a difference! So much better

[MacGyver]

Got a set of delphi balljoints, what a difference! So much better

Do you have a link for them?

Ben

[1314cc]

Got them from a chap in Northern Ireland who runs CC mini's of Lisburn , he's got a Facebook page called CC mini's. These were new old stock, so much better than the crap on ebay! And no black finish to them. You could contact him through Facebook as he may have more. I know he also has unipart ones. Very helpful chap

[JBW]

Delphi part no. is TD229W, available from several Ebay sellers who specify that its a genuine part, so if its not it can be returned.

Worth paying the extra for decent quality parts, unlike the cheap rubbish ones

 

Also Knuckle Joints are Delphi part no. TC30, I've used them, hoping the rubbers last a bit longer than the cheap ones, (Delphi logo on the rubber cover)

[Spider]

Got them from a chap in Northern Ireland who runs CC mini's of Lisburn ,  Very helpful chap

 

He's also a regular on this forum