17 replies to this topic

[Simont]

I have a 1985 city e, needs a rear subframe for mot,
anyone used the mini spares non genuine subby?

I've always err'd on the side of caution previously and purchased the BMH stuff, however money is an issue this time,
whats the fit like?
does it come powdercoated or just painted?
any other suggestions?

 

thanks guys!

[KernowCooper]

One I saw was paint, not sure who makes them though, I have seen some that had to be forced in to line up and thats not right they came from a motor factor though. Perhaps someone here who has had a recent one can shed more light

Edited by KernowCooper, 05 April 2017 - 08:34 PM.

[finch661]

i bought a non-genuine one from ms about 6-7 years ago (due to budget constraints). it seem to fit ok, the only trouble i had was lining the bolts up, but i had replaced all the rubber mounts. i temoved the subframe last year to repair my boot floor, and all went back together easily.

i bought the painted version, but stone chipped it, painted it and undersealed, and it still looks good

[CityEPete]

I wouldn't go for powder coat anyway.

[absx2]

Having fitted a few dozen rear subframes I have to say they all have the odd issue here and there and on the four genuine frames i have fitted one had serious alignment issues necessitating in welding up and redrilling an inner radius arm bolt hole. ( big big discount on that one )

Another looked like it had been rear ended in the factory. ( returned )

 

The finnish is always better on the heritage stuff but is it worth twice the price ? Personally I don`t think so.

 

Whatever subframe you get use a piece of string passed through the radius arm bolt holes and brackets to check alignment as it can save a lot of messing around.

 

I`m with Pete, powder coat is overrated as one scuff or chip and the rust is in there travelling happily along the entire structure rotting it all away.

2K epoxy or 1k enamel if going the DIY route and you will still have to inject the cavities

Don`t be tempted to put the paint on too thick as it can be as bad as powder coat and the rot can get in without you noticing.  

[Dusky]

What I do to protect subframes, and anything that gets stone chips, is use a paint elastifier. A lot better than the easily chipped powdercoat for the reasons mentioned above.

[sonikk4]

Got to love the knocking about powdercoat. If done properly its as tough as old boots. Again its all down to preparation and i'm having mine powdercoated and picking them up tomorrow.

 

Each to their own.

[CityEPete]

The problem I find with powdercoat is that you cant 'repair' the finish if it gets damaged, teeth from an unprotected trolley jack and thats it. Maybe if it's your baby and it's not going to be abused by kwikfit monkeys or similar but there's no way it offers much protection for winter use, it has 0% corrosion inhibitor unlike zinc primer, red oxide, chassis black, waxoyl, hammerite etc etc which are all retouchable too.

[1984mini25]

Got to love the knocking about powdercoat. If done properly its as tough as old boots. Again its all down to preparation and i'm having mine powdercoated and picking them up tomorrow.

 

Each to their own.

 

You do know then that rear subframes rot form the inside outwards with the inner radius arm mounts being the first to go. And I'd love to know how you get powder coat (witch is nothing more than a plastic powder that's melted to form a coating OVER whatever's being coated) inside all the nooks and crannies and box sections.

 

But then the last non-genuine subframe I bought and fitted from Minispeed went on with no alignment issues whatsoever. It was treaded to a good rub down, a few coats of primer, a few coats of top coat and plenty of wax/old engine oil into all the internal bits. And seams to be lasting a lot better than the one it replaced (also non-genuine) that was just painted and under sealed (horrid stuff that just hides rust until its too late) and rotted from the inside out within 7 years.

Edited by 1984mini25, 06 April 2017 - 09:35 PM.

[sonikk4]

Like anything mini you add protection where needed so the cavities can be laced liberally with a Waxoyl type product. My rear subframe is brand new OE and is fully clean even before it went to the powdercoaters.

 

Once they are back they will be fully inspected and any areas that are slightly suspect will be addressed. Any box sections will be injected with protection. I will be using Dinitrol for that particular purpose.

[CityEPete]

What will you address them with?

[sonikk4]

What will you address them with?

 

Anything that has been missed that i can see inside i will epoxy prime and then paint. Once that is done as i previously mentioned i will then use Dinitrol. Unfortunately today when i went in to pick them up they have not been done, so rather than have them rushed i will wait. This particular company happen to do subframes for Mondosport plus they do have a very good reputation.

[CityEPete]

Some kind of galv dip then powder coat would be ideal imo.

[sonikk4]

Some kind of galv dip then powder coat would be ideal imo.

 

Very much so but my expenses are rising exponentially so this time i wont be going that route. 

[Simont]

Purchased a repro from oldskoolminis up in brum as I was passing, the fit was shocking, after I lathered many coats of hammerite/stonechip underseal etc,
turns out the radius arm holes dont line up, after heavy modification, some swearing and yelling at a neighbours dog,

The rear wheels are now aligned, and the car is back on the road with a perfect MOT, (and a slightly leaky heater matrix)

 

was it worth the hassle? probably not,
if i did it again, Heritage no question,

On a final note, maybe if i leave the old one on the kerb, it may go walkabout......