5 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

Hi;

 

Think I have fixed it (will check again today and keep an eye on it).

I noticed some fluid on the floor and it turned out to be brake fluid!!

 

On inspection it looks to be coming out of the three way splitter where the front to rear enters it. 

I tweaked the nut up a tad with a spanner and also the other two that go to the left and right wheels.  

 

Is this a common issue caused through vibration and how should I prevent it?

 

My front to rear runs up and over the SubFrame (which is how it was before I did the resto, Should I run a new line underneath? 

 

 

Took the Engine Enamel clean off but luckily didn't touch the Jotun Epoxy.

 

What's then best product for cleaning off brake fluid?

 

 

 

[panky]

Soapy water will clean it up.

[tiger99]

Is that copper pipe, or Cunifer? It is common for copper, which is unsafe for several reasons and should not be used on vehicle brake systems, to start to split at or near the unions.

 

I don't know why you have a joint above the U bend as I can't see enough detail in the picture, but that U bend was originally 1.5 turns of STEEL pipe, which has less trouble with fatigue problems than even Cunifer. It was done that way to allow for subframe movement on its mounting rubbers. Not enough length of pipe to flex safely will again result in fatigue cracking of the pipe at one or other of the unions.

 

I strongly recommend examining the pipe ends very closely under a magnifier. You will need to disconnect them to do that.

 

I think I see some but not all tube nuts are brass. OK as regards pressure, but after a few years brass nuts can be a real pig to remove because if they become tight the spanner just rounds off the corners.

[minimans]

Shouldn't there be a valve at that location tot a straight tee???

[JonnyAlpha]

Is that copper pipe, or Cunifer? It is common for copper, which is unsafe for several reasons and should not be used on vehicle brake systems, to start to split at or near the unions.

 

I don't know why you have a joint above the U bend as I can't see enough detail in the picture, but that U bend was originally 1.5 turns of STEEL pipe, which has less trouble with fatigue problems than even Cunifer. It was done that way to allow for subframe movement on its mounting rubbers. Not enough length of pipe to flex safely will again result in fatigue cracking of the pipe at one or other of the unions.

 

I strongly recommend examining the pipe ends very closely under a magnifier. You will need to disconnect them to do that.

 

I think I see some but not all tube nuts are brass. OK as regards pressure, but after a few years brass nuts can be a real pig to remove because if they become tight the spanner just rounds off the corners.

 

The rear brake lines are Cupronickel from Richmond Classics as seen here at the bottom of this thread from my rebuild project. When we rebuilt the car I could not remember which way the brake lines ran - When I researched how to route it I decided that it should go up between the BulkHead and Subframe. This is how we routed it before we put the Subframe back on however I then found that it was too short!!

So rather than take the Subframe back off (and I wasn't prepared to do that) I asked around and was advised to add an extension by using a Front Subframe brake pipe. This is the Union that you can see, it joins the end of the front to rear brake line to the T Piece.  

 

 

 

Shouldn't there be a valve at that location tot a straight tee???

 

Does my explanation above help? 

[tiger99]

Good. It is unfortunate that the pipe was too short. But it seems that you do have sufficient length now to form the 1.5 turn coil. I assume that the union is anchored to something, otherwise there will be MOT problems.

As for the T piece or valve, I would expect that you have used the correct combination of parts according to rear wheel cylinder diameter, master cylinder, and limiter valve on bulkhead, so I would not be expecting to see a limiter valve there unless the Mini is very old.