Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Brake Plumbing Problem


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 Swift_General

Swift_General

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 871 posts
  • Location: England

Posted 18 April 2017 - 06:21 PM

Have what I thought would be a straightforward problem but haven't yet found the solution. Basically I have flexible brake hoses from a later twin circuit brake servo. These have an M10 banjo union on the end. These obviously need to be plumped into the rest of the car, which has not brake lines at present so I am free to do pretty much what I want as I have a the kit to make lines up. I thought there would be some bulkhead fitting that I would place alongside the clutch/engine steady plate, for the banjo fitting to bolt down into, with a 3/8" UNF fitting the other end, but despite searching the various online catalogues haven't yet found it. Anyone any ideas? Thanks.

#2 cal844

cal844

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,632 posts
  • Location: Ballingry, Fife
  • Local Club: TFMOC

Posted 18 April 2017 - 07:24 PM

All you need is the later banjo and bolt(m10 thread) for the front... At the back you just put an M10 end on

#3 Swift_General

Swift_General

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 871 posts
  • Location: England

Posted 18 April 2017 - 08:29 PM

Sorry I should have been clearer. This is kit I have from mini spares.
http://www.minispare...ssic/SEN45.aspx
Obviously one end of each hose goes knto the master cylinder. The other end would presumably bolt into the FAM7821 valve which I am not using. So I am looking to plumb the hoses in some other way.

#4 cal844

cal844

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,632 posts
  • Location: Ballingry, Fife
  • Local Club: TFMOC

Posted 18 April 2017 - 08:45 PM

You will need a pressure reducer for the rear circuit. Why are you not using the valve?

#5 Spider

Spider

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,025 posts
  • Location: NSW
  • Local Club: South Australian Moke Club

Posted 18 April 2017 - 08:51 PM

I think I get a bit of an idea of the fitting you are after. Off hand, i don't know of a supplier, as most off the shelf stuff these days seem to have odd ball AN type threads, presumably to look one in to using their hoses and other fittings.

 

I've made a number of odd fittings as I've needed them from time to time, for something like this, probably from some 20 x 40 brass. If you do go this way, you do need a means of drilling & tapping the holes dead square so that they don't leak.



#6 Spider

Spider

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,025 posts
  • Location: NSW
  • Local Club: South Australian Moke Club

Posted 18 April 2017 - 08:58 PM

Have you looked at Earls?

 

https://www.earls.co...nd-accessories/



#7 Swift_General

Swift_General

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 871 posts
  • Location: England

Posted 18 April 2017 - 09:21 PM

Have you looked at Earls?
 
https://www.earls.co...nd-accessories/


Thanks. No I haven't looked here but will do. Where I have looked I also found reference to an 'AN' fitting which is the first I had every heard of it. I like your idea about fabricating something, but don't think I really have the kit to get any tapping dead square unfortunately.

#8 Spider

Spider

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,025 posts
  • Location: NSW
  • Local Club: South Australian Moke Club

Posted 18 April 2017 - 10:14 PM

 

Have you looked at Earls?
 
https://www.earls.co...nd-accessories/


Thanks. No I haven't looked here but will do. Where I have looked I also found reference to an 'AN' fitting which is the first I had every heard of it. I like your idea about fabricating something, but don't think I really have the kit to get any tapping dead square unfortunately.

 

 

You'll need some time to wade through that website I'm sorry as it's poorly laid out, but a lot of odds and sodds there.

 

In regards to drilling and tapping square, if you have a drill press, drilling the holes is obvious, however, I frequently use the drill press for starting off threads that need to be square. I load up the tap, but only turn the chuck by hand until I get about 3 threads in there and that's usually enough to carry on with a normal tapping wrench to finish it off square. You will still need to take care with the next few threads, but once you have a sound start, it's fairly easy.



#9 tiger99

tiger99

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,584 posts
  • Location: Hemel Hempstead

Posted 19 April 2017 - 11:24 AM

Car Builder Solutions are another place to try for fittings.

Making one at home is highly problematic. Even if you can drill and tap truly perpendicular, you need a machined face. The other port(s) on your home made adaptor will presumably be taking standard flared tubes and if you had the facilities to make these,with the correct seating in true alignment with the thread,you would probably not need to ask the question. Then there is the grade of brass to consider. What burst pressure should you be designing for?

I really would most strongly advise against any attempt to make hydraulic unions at home. Lives depend on them being correct. In any case, why not just use the standard fittings? As has been said already, the pressure limiting valve is ESSENTIAL and you should only use the bulkhead mounted type, with the ports the correct way round, so that a failure in the front curcuit automatically allows full rear braking.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users