8 replies to this topic

[designermatt]

The hub will not go flush against the backing plate/radius arm, Ive tapped it into place with a soft hammer but it wont go that last few

mm, what is wrong , have I done something incorrectly? I fit everything back as it came out. Only difference is I fit taper roller bearings

when ball bearings came out, but I assume this is no problem?

[nicklouse]

They don't go flush to the back plate.

[designermatt]

sorry yeah i didnt mean flush , but about it should go up to about 1mm or 2mm between back plate and hub, but mine with the hub nut done

up very tight , not torqued yet , will have a lot of forwards and backwards slop, something isnt right , its like the inner bearing hasnt gone fully home against the radius arm, but I have wacked it on with a hammer but still the play?

[nicklouse]

You have made sure the distance piece has not hooked up on any thing?

I always check the parts fit before assembling in the hub.

[designermatt]

distance piece? Mine didnt have any spacer inside, the ones I took out were ball bearings, the ones I put in were tapered roller bearings, the minisport cheap ones,

do you mean tap the bearings onto the shaft out of the hub to make sure it goes all the way ? I will have to strip it down again tomorrow and make sure my inner races are fully home, and also check the bearing fits onto the shaft all the way

[tiger99]

"the minisport cheap ones"

 

Really, what do you expect? This has been covered on the forum many times. The saying "buy cheap, buy twice" is invariably true. You should not ever buy cheap safety critical parts, and those particular bearings are well known to be absolute rubbish.

 

I suggest that you get a proper set of genuine Timkens from a reputable supplier (as counterfeit Timkens are around) and pay close attention to keeping each set of bearings with its own spacer, unless the spacerless type, and each inner with its own outer ring, as they are individually matched and must not be mixed.

 

The bearing outers need to be firmly seated in the hub, the inners and spacer will be seated when the hub nut is torqued up correctly. Always spin the hub as you SLOWLY tighten the nut, and if the hub starts to go tight, stop at once and find out what is wrong, before ruining the bearings.

[cian]

Said it many times never go for the " cheaper " option these are the ones you should be using, i have plenty instock at £34 posted

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[tiger99]

These are genuine Unipart, usually made by Timken or sometimes maybe SKF, to the BMC/BL/Rover spec. When there were Rover dealers, that is what they supplied. Never had any problems with those, and I used to do very high mileage. Get them while you can!

[designermatt]

solved it in the end, there was no hub nut washer on this side for some reason, There definately wasnt one on when I took it off, and thats probably why there was so much play in the wheel, its got new bearings in now and after fitting the washer it all went correct with no play in the bearings.

 

I understand people recommend the timken bearings but Im going to use the more cost effective bearings for now to see how they fair

as I want to see for myself how well they will last etc