8 replies to this topic

[dargenso]

1986 automatic mini

Left hand drive

 

I bought a stone one kit from mini spares and had fitted it with very little issue until now. Currently my throttle pedal is very hard to push down and can only hit about 1/4 throttle and 1/2 throttle if I really push down on it.

 

At first I thought it might be the throttle cable may be too tight, while looking I notice that the kick down rod rubs against the manifold. Unfortunately I didn't do a search until now but I see that this can be a  issue when added a stage one kit to a automatic. I saw a workaround on the automatic mini register forum but I didn't quite understand the pictures he was showing.

 

What kind of work around can I do on my kickdown rod? Or do I have to find a new manifold that fits a automatic?

[Wim Fournier]

I understand your problem. Have a MiniMatic myself and studied the possebility to use an Long Centre Branche outlet pipe. That would conflict with the govener rod for the gearbox.

Yes, you could buy a special manifold, but they will charge you another $1000. For only a centimeter and a half longer pipework. So, I decided to not take this way.

Try to make your own variant of rod from the carburettor to the gearbox.

Originally there is a rod pushing. I wondered if I could make a cable pulling (bellcrank in between) to get enough distance between the rod and manifold.

 

When you give us the entering line of the message that you found on the proboards site, we could take a look at it. Maybe some one can explain the picture/drawing.

 

( stage 1 and kickdown )?

Edited by Wim Fournier, 15 May 2017 - 01:16 PM.

[pete l]

I was in Forbach on saturday

[danm]

Doesn't a cooper freeflow work without issue?

[dargenso]

Doesn't a cooper freeflow work without issue?

It fitted fine its just that the kick down rod rubs against the mainflow and when pressing the throttle you can hear the metal on metal contact.

 

I was in Forbach on saturday

Same here, though it was just a quick trip cora.

 

 

I understand your problem. Have a MiniMatic myself and studied the possebility to use an Long Centre Branche outlet pipe. That would conflict with the govener rod for the gearbox.

Yes, you could buy a special manifold, but they will charge you another $1000. For only a centimeter and a half longer pipework. So, I decided to not take this way.

Try to make your own variant of rod from the carburettor to the gearbox.

Originally there is a rod pushing. I wondered if I could make a cable pulling (bellcrank in between) to get enough distance between the rod and manifold.

 

When you give us the entering line of the message that you found on the proboards site, we could take a look at it. Maybe some one can explain the picture/drawing.

 

( stage 1 and kickdown )?

I looked and saw that there is a maniflow manifold for automatics but the price of just the manifold itself was roughly 200. It looks light I may be able to bend the kickdown rod slightly or even make a small dent in the manifold just for a little bit of clearance. 

 

Yes stage1 and kickdown was the name of the thread I saw the pictures one

http://autominiregis....com/thread/777

 

*Edit* added some pictures

Attached Files

•  DSCF8752.JPG   24.82K   15 downloads
•  DSCF8754.JPG   24.85K   14 downloads
•  DSCF8755.JPG   33.19K   10 downloads

Edited by dargenso, 15 May 2017 - 05:15 PM.

[Guess-Works.com]

There is a specific manifold for Automatics...

PS, it's not a kick down rod, but governor control rod, so like a throttle position sensor in manual form... it controls the movement of the governor in the transmission... and should be set at a certain position at idle... if you bend it, it will change the relative position of the governor to idle and therefore upset the rest of the positions for the automatic changing of ratios. So you MUST reset the position of the control rod if you bend, by either legthening or shortening it.

[limby2000]

You may have seen this pic on the auto forum, this is on my 1098 build, obviously not a hif, but i do know that other,s have put lcb on an auto, but i do know there,s usually a bit of fettling, and as guesswork suggested once you,ve moved the adjustment you must check the allignment of the bellcrank. At worst you may have to make up a new rod. I know Martin Mra made a cable kickdown on a turbo conversion where there,s deffo no legroom as turbo,s in way.  rps20170516_191847_759.jpg   43.06K   24 downloads

[limby2000]

Hi Dargenso, just a thought, if you did,nt want to put a small crease in your downpipe as someone mentioned you could always add another carb abutement spacer to give it the little extra clearance it needed (providing your got room between your air filter and bulkhead). The only issue i found on mine was when the linkage was on full throttle, the plastic elbow was about 5mm from the centre downpipe. I pit a heat resistant sleeve over this.

[limby2000]

Hi Dargenso, just a thought, if you did,nt want to put a small crease in your downpipe as someone mentioned you could always add another carb abutement spacer to give it the little extra clearance it needed (providing your got room between your air filter and bulkhead). The only issue i found on mine was when the linkage was on full throttle, the plastic elbow was about 5mm from the downpipe. I pit a heat resistant sleeve over this.