9 replies to this topic

[Pairaminis]

I have a problem getting the sleeve that holds the detent spring and ball into the right side differential case.  It slides in part way but won't mesh with the inner spool (I think its called) and seat flush with the side of the case.  The motor and transmission are both new and are installed in my '84 saloon.   The differential side case was removed to try to free up a stuck shifter rod in the transmission that was not built by me.  The action did free the stuck shifter rod but my moving it about has apparently moved the inner spool out of position and I think is keeping me from reinstalling the sleeve.

 

Is there a way of getting the sleeve and inner spool in the right positions so I can reinstalled the differential side cover?

 

Jack

[Spider]

There's also a small ball bearing that normally fits inside the steel sleeve, that may still be in there and so stopping the sleeve from going home. I usually use a small magnet to get the ball out. You may need to wiggle the selector shaft about a little to get the slot in the spool to line up for the sleeve, however, have a good look first to see in fact that the spool hasn't moved too far from where it needs to be, you can move it back in to place with a small screw driver, just be gentle so as to not bruise the casing.

 

When you do look in the machined hole, you should be able to see the ribs in the selector shaft, if it looks plain, then the spool has most likely moved in. It can come out, but not far.

 

Fit the sleeve first, all the way home, then the ball bearing, then the spring. There is an O ring that goes around the sleeve and fits up flush, you'll see the machined groove for it. I put a dab of RTV Silicon on the side cover where the O ring goes as 'insurance' against leakage.

[Pairaminis]

Moke Spider,

  I shortened my explanation of what I did and failed to mention that I took the O-ring out to protect it and removed the sleeve, spring and ball in order to get the shifter rod to move.  The inter spool is now totally out of position and when I twist the shifter rod I can just see the very bottom of what looks like a gap at the top of the inter spool where I think the sleeve is supposed to go.  But I can't make it go far enough around for the sleeve to fit in.

  I was trying to avoid pulling my brand new motor and transmission to solve this problem.  But I probably should do so anyway to try to determine why I was unable to twist the shifter rod or move it in out out in the first place.

Jack

[Spider]

Jack - sorry, I'm not on my regular computer and can't access half of what I need!

 

I'll throw up a photo a little later.

 

Ah, OK, gotya on that - you have also taken out the ball bearing too.

 

The Inner End of the Spool has a Indexing Register that holds the Selector Toggles (that are not selected) in Neutral. This is the Interlock that prevents the Gearbox from selecting 2 gears at once. So, the Spool does need to be in just the right spot before it can be rotated to let you get the Sleeve in. With a screwdriver, some jiggling of the selector shaft and determination, you might be able to realign the spool, though, if Reverse Gear has slipped over you will also need to lift the Flywheel end on the engine and if you have the means, dangle the whole engine on it's side with the flywheel upper most, to try to get Reverse to go back to the Neutral position before you'll be able to turn the Spool.

 

If none of that works,you'll need to take the Diff Cap off and remove the Diff to set the Selector Toggles in the right position.

[Pairaminis]

I'd like to avoid separating the motor and transmission mission if possible.

Is it possible to get the shifter rod and the inter spool in their correct positions  through the differential with the engine out?

Jack

[Spider]

You won't need to separate the engine and gearbox!  If the above hasn't worked, then just remove the diff only, There's a cap on the back of the gearbox that comes off right where you are working on it.

[Pairaminis]

Thanks for the info.  With the tranny stuck in neutral, I was able to run my new motor for the 20 minute break-in and all went so well (until I tried to do some shifting - LOL) I din't want to mess with anything I didn't have to.

Jack

[Spider]

That's fair enough not wanting to mess with stuff you don't need to however, - subject to your engine builder's recommendations,- I would caution against running the engine at all with no load if it has fresh bores and new rings. They will glaze very quickly and then never bed in, it will for ever after burn lots of oil.

[Pairaminis]

How do you get a 20 minute engine break-in at a constant 2500+ RPM to bed the lifters/cam with a load on the motor?  I've only run the engine for that purpose so far.

Jack

[Spider]

It doesn't need to be a constant 2000 RPM, just not under 2000 RPM.

 

The reason for this is to make sure there's enough Oil on the Cam. The Cam lobes are only lubed from oil throw off from the big end bearings. At slower speeds, there's not enough oil volume.