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Wallowy Handling Characteristics


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#1 7builder

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 04:08 PM

The Min has started to develop a wallowy habit when being pushed through the tight and twisties and no longer feels as sharp as it once did. More jelly fish than on rails. Would this be down to worn dampers or tired rubber cones or something else that I haven't thought about?
It is a 1986 Mini on Hi-Lo's with fully adjustable lower arms and heavy duty tie rods with a porridge stirrer for a gear stick. :-)



#2 absx2

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 04:24 PM

Porridge stirrer AKA magic wand on a 1986 or did you mean 1966 ?

 

Start with tyre pressures, tie bar bushes, bent tie bar ( castor angles) track rod ends, bottom arm bushes, swivel pins, steering rack U bolts.

 

Then rear radius arm bushes, wheel bearing play and rubber mounted front subframe parts if it is 1976 on.

 

The cones could flat and the suspension could be on the bump stops.

 

Shocks, well hard is not always the best so they would have to be leaking I would guess.

 

Well that's a start in no particular order except tyre pressures.


Edited by absx2, 16 May 2017 - 04:26 PM.


#3 Cooperman

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 04:29 PM

The first question is whether the sub-frame is solidly mounted. if not, that is probably where the problem lies. And by 'solid mounted' I don't mean with those useless poly-bushes, I mean SOLIDLY mounted.

 

If it is already solidly mounted, check the front bulkhead where the sub-frame is bolted on  for splits and cracks - repair if necessary.

 

Then check all the steering and suspension system for free-play and/or wear. This includes track rod ends, steering rack mounting, the lower arm inner bushes, the rack itself and the front tie-bar rubber bushes Inspect the swivel hub ball joints and replace if necessary.

 

Make sure the steering is accurately tracked giving a very small amount of toe-out.



#4 7builder

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 05:12 PM

Porridge stirrer AKA magic wand on a 1986 or did you mean 1966 ?

 

Start with tyre pressures, tie bar bushes, bent tie bar ( castor angles) track rod ends, bottom arm bushes, swivel pins, steering rack U bolts.

 

Then rear radius arm bushes, wheel bearing play and rubber mounted front subframe parts if it is 1976 on.

 

The cones could flat and the suspension could be on the bump stops.

 

Shocks, well hard is not always the best so they would have to be leaking I would guess.

 

Well that's a start in no particular order except tyre pressures.

It's definitely a 1986. I didn't realise early gear changes were refered to as porridge stirrers ( I searched after your question) I was referring to the vague gear change on my Mini which is a another problem to be adressed in its own thread. It sounds like there is a lot to check going by the items you listed.



#5 7builder

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 05:17 PM

The first question is whether the sub-frame is solidly mounted. if not, that is probably where the problem lies. And by 'solid mounted' I don't mean with those useless poly-bushes, I mean SOLIDLY mounted.

 

If it is already solidly mounted, check the front bulkhead where the sub-frame is bolted on  for splits and cracks - repair if necessary.

 

Then check all the steering and suspension system for free-play and/or wear. This includes track rod ends, steering rack mounting, the lower arm inner bushes, the rack itself and the front tie-bar rubber bushes Inspect the swivel hub ball joints and replace if necessary.

 

Make sure the steering is accurately tracked giving a very small amount of toe-out.

Most of what you have listed has been replaced over the past 12 months and was recently subject to a wheel alignment/tracking session to get everything set up correctly. I will have to google solid mounted subframes though as I'm not sure what that means or if I have that on mine. It will have to wait a week or so as it is currently in the body shop having a new wing and bits thanks to someone driving into me as I wallowed around a roundabout.



#6 7builder

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 05:28 PM

I just found the how to guide for fitting solid mounts. http://www.theminifo...ubframe-mounts/

I didn't realise you meant SOLID, that must rattle your fillings surely? I can see how it would stop any movement though.



#7 RooBoonix

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 05:41 PM

I just found the how to guide for fitting solid mounts. http://www.theminifo...ubframe-mounts/
I didn't realise you meant SOLID, that must rattle your fillings surely? I can see how it would stop any movement though.

I hear the difference in cabin comfort and noise is minimal. After all, most things attached to the subframe should have rubber bushes (engine mounts are rubber, suspension arms are rubber bushes, tie rods rubber again etc etc..) it's something I plan to do.

Edited by RooBoonix, 16 May 2017 - 05:41 PM.


#8 Cooperman

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 07:36 PM

I just found the how to guide for fitting solid mounts. http://www.theminifo...ubframe-mounts/

I didn't realise you meant SOLID, that must rattle your fillings surely? I can see how it would stop any movement though.

 

The original Minis all had solidly mounted front sub-frames and that is how the car was designed. It was not until the target market changed from including young people to being middle-aged ladies that the frame mounting was changed to rubber mounted to improve HVH. However, the NVH didn't really change, al that happened was that the rubber mounts would fail, or partly fail, leading to imprecise steering due to the sub-frame moving around instead of the front wheels turning.

 

Fitting a good all-solid mount kit is the best thing you can do to improve steering response and 'sharpness'. But don't go for poly-bushes as they are crap.






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