17 replies to this topic

[grahama]

Hi all,

 

 

Following my last post a week or so ago, ('cv joint woes'),  I have checked everything, here's where I am.....

 

 

bearings, new,

 

hub and split conical washer smooth and nothing stopping it closing together properly,

 

all Haynes torque setting done (single hole cv 190 lb/ft),

 

tightened with spacer before full torque up on conical split washer,

 

No wobble top to bottom which suggests the swivel joints are ok, they are new too,

 

slight play left to right.

 

I have tightened the bearings up in the hub without the spacer to see if the hub had worn and the spacer was a tad too wide, but got the same result (well nipped up not full torque)

 

The CV joint is not new but moved ok so kept it on rebuild.

 

 

Am at my wits end with this problem as I just cant figure out what is causing the problem.

 

ALL help appreciated including coming to my house in Warrington to have a look lol

 

Many thanks as always,

 

Graham

 

 

[MIGLIACARS]

it may be in the steering track arms were they meet the rack hard to see but u can get play there especially on full droop

[grahama]

They are also brand new so should be OK. They do m ok be when I wiggle the wheel but I assume that is just the steering rack play.

If however the play is the track rod ends how will it ever get thru an mot showing play on the wheel. 😩😩

[cal844]

They are also brand new so should be OK. They do m ok be when I wiggle the wheel but I assume that is just the steering rack play.
If however the play is the track rod ends how will it ever get thru an mot showing play on the wheel.

If its side to side its either the track rod ends OR the outer rack joint(that rod that the TRE screws onto has another joint under the inner boot)

[Spider]

Sorry, I'm not 100% clear from your opening post, but it appears that even if you remove the spacer from the wheel bearing assy and put it together, and nip the nut, there's still noticeable play?

 

Read you have fitted a new steering arm, but are the dowels in good condition and are the bolts new & tight?  These bolts can stretch and feel like you've done them up tight but in fact are not.

[grahama]

Yes, spacer out and nipped up. Still noticable play.

Steering arms aren't new and bolts aren't either but they are solid and dowels were fine on refit.

Track rod ends are new also. So frustrating, I just don't get it ahhhhhhhhhhhhh !!

[MatthewsDad]

Not sure whether I'll be able to sort it Graham but I can offer a hand over the weekend. PM me if you're interested - might help with two trying to isolate the problem.

[Spider]

Which side is it?  LH or RH?

[grahama]

It's passenger side

[Spider]

It's passenger side

 

It can sometimes be hard to pick, but I think it's your steering rack. The Bush in the Passengers end of them wears (quicker than they should IMO) and that will give  movement at the hub at the 3 and 9 position.

 

Also, the location of the rack, right in the middle of the toe board and not anchored to the subframe moves (by design) too, though, this movement has a spongy feel to it, where as a worn rack tends to have more of a klunk feel to it.

[grahama]

If that is the case is it a new rack or is the play acceptable?? Don't fancy dropping the engine to replace the rack 😩😩

[Spider]

Some play I think for MOT is acceptable (someone maybe able to confirm).

 

Personally, I like zero play in mine.

 

Even having 'MOT Acceptable Play, will increase tyre wear.

[Dusky]

It probably won't change a lot, but your torque setting isnt right

[grahama]

Single hole CV joint 190lbft ???

[tiger99]

 Play in the rack bush often causes knocking, which is fairly easy to spot, but we don't seem to have many cases of it on the forum. Anyway, it is easy to diagnose by gripping the ball-jointed end of the rack by hand, through the gaiter, and feeling for movement fore and aft, and up and down. You may not be able to feel a couple of thou through the rubber, but you will be able to feel the knocks as slack is taken up each way.

 

A similar test, gripping the inner end of the tie rod instead, will show up play in the inner ball joints, at the ends of the rack.

 

But the key to all this is to see what is moving with respect to what. When you move the drive flange, hold the hub, so you are only feeling for bearing movement. Try again, holding the end of the steering arm. If you like, temporarily take out some shims and nip up the ball joints so they are tight. (DO NOT try to move the suspension, or drive the car!) to remove any doubts about them. Fingers are quite sensitive, if well looked after, and although you can't measure a thou by touch, you should be able to feel it as a click or knock when something loose is moved.