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Tips On Buying A Used Engine Please .


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#1 mr cooke

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Posted 10 June 2017 - 01:36 PM

Hi all . I am looking to replace the engine due to gear box problems and burning oil . I would like to upgrade it to a 1275 unit (from a 998 ) . When buying a use engine it is hard to tell how many mile's it has done the seller could say its done 28k but its realy done 80k ?. 

Can anyone please give me any tips on what to look for when buying a used engine . 

Thanks Chris 

 



#2 nicklouse

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Posted 10 June 2017 - 01:42 PM

see it running.



#3 AlexMozza

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Posted 10 June 2017 - 02:37 PM

Any used engine, strip it down and check.
Regardless if the seller has said it runs.

#4 designermatt

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Posted 10 June 2017 - 03:11 PM

well if you can see it running and drive it around then you will know exactly what youre getting. This is rarely the case though.

 

If youre buying an old 1275 off ebay for example no matter what they say , assume its had a hard life and needs a major service inspection.

 

Atleast you should strip it down and check the condition of all the bearing shells big ends and mains, how much end float in the crank there is , the condition of thrust washers etc... The pistons , bores etc...

 

The thing is if you've stripped it all down just to check you may aswell rebuild it all with new parts etc..., but it depends how much wonga youve got.



#5 designermatt

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Posted 10 June 2017 - 03:16 PM

for example ive just stripped down an old 998 that i got off gumtree, condition was unknown , so low and behold I stripped it down to find that the crank was heavily scored on the big ends and some of the mains, and there was a massive crank end float, however the crank nose was in okay condition, so Ive put this crank to the side if I need it in the future I will get it reground etc... So I took a crank that I had lying around and fit that with all new shells etc and am now cleaning up a gearbox to put on that and have a working engine again.

 

I should add the bores on this block were in very good condition so ive left the pistons, rings and bores as they are for now.



#6 minimans

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Posted 10 June 2017 - 03:44 PM

If your planning on just shoving it in as a replacement then you need to be able to drive it first to check the gearbox and engine, If your buying it on trust then it could be an expensive mistake! If it's out of the car then treat it as a core fit for rebuild and price accordingly. If you can drive it and it feels OK then expect to pay more................



#7 dyshipfakta

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Posted 10 June 2017 - 05:26 PM

Buy a rotter project with a running engine. Sell the excess parts to get the difference back

#8 mr cooke

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Posted 10 June 2017 - 07:58 PM

Thanks for all the reply's . So in a nut shell if your unable to see it running and you are unsure of the history . Get it stripped down before fitting . 



#9 Spider

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Posted 10 June 2017 - 08:35 PM

I have always tend to view any used engine as just that and one in need of a rebuild. If you can fit it up and drive it for a while, then that's a bonus.



#10 Cooperman

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Posted 10 June 2017 - 09:02 PM

Expect to have to re-build it, then you will not be surprised when you find it needs exactly that.



#11 Ethel

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Posted 10 June 2017 - 10:12 PM

All the above, it's only guaranteed value is £10-15 scrap.

 

Sadly it's a seller's market so you might be tempted to take a punt:

 

Look at the general external condition, signs for signs of leaks, head stud threads that have been undone etc.

 

Dip the oil and inspect all the sparkplugs.

 

Turn it over by hand with the rocker cover off to see all the valves move. A thumb over the plug hole of the cylinder with both both valves closed gives a crude compression test.

 

Select all gears, by sticking a screwdriver the selector roll pin hole, and look for movement of the diff output shafts when turning the engine. Turn one output shaft  against the other to look for slack or noise from the diff.

 

Do a compression test if you can, run it if you can and check the oil pressure, but don't take anything as equivalent to a proper test drive that would put the engine under load and get it up to running temperature.



#12 Chris.Williams

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Posted 11 June 2017 - 02:40 AM

Unless you really enjoy removing and fitting engines, strip it, inspect it and replace what needs replacing.
You'll end up with a turn key and drive car that you're not continually dicking with.
Apart from the regular dicking of course.
You can also use this time to do any upgrades eg camshaft etc.

#13 Black.Ghost

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 12:45 PM

Unless there is a specific reason for wanting the 1275, it may be better just to rebuild your 998. You know the history (to an extent), and you'll save yourself a load of money for a couple of little upgrades.

#14 Cooperman

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 01:39 PM

Unless there is a specific reason for wanting the 1275, it may be better just to rebuild your 998. You know the history (to an extent), and you'll save yourself a load of money for a couple of little upgrades.

+1 on this.

A fully rebuilt 998 is a lovely engine and quite sufficient for an old classic car with retro-driving characteristics.



#15 mk1leg

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 08:18 PM

Save a bit more and get off the shelf half engine from minispares £1100






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