Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Non-Genuine Ball Joints Seem Like Garbage


  • Please log in to reply
34 replies to this topic

#1 AeroNotix

AeroNotix

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 267 posts
  • Location: Krakow (Blackpool, originally)

Posted 11 June 2017 - 02:28 PM

I bought a pre-made swivel hub from minisport a couple of months ago. The one that comes prefitted with ball joints and apparently shimmed properly.

 

This past weekend I went to replace my tie bars (they had a slight S kink to them), obviously being a mini one of the bolts was rusted on so I removed the lower suspension arm along with the tie bar and hammered it out. When I went to replace everything, needing to refit the lower ball joint I found that the threads were completely ruined. Bare in mind this is a new ball joint, installed once and removed once both times the fitting and removal went very smoothly without needing to overly hammer/bash the ball joint to get it out.

 

Simply put, the ball joint's tapered shank bolt is utter and complete garbage. It has less than 2000km on it and has been treat well when serviced. I just don't understand. The grade of material used seems also quite suspect. It does not seem to have been hardened and is easily scuffed, bent and marred.

 

I have several genuine ball joint kits that can use and replace that bolt with. The difference in quality is ridiculous. The bolt is hardened, for example.  



#2 MIGLIACARS

MIGLIACARS

    Up Into Fourth

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,057 posts

Posted 11 June 2017 - 02:58 PM

Ive given up with new ball joints they never go together properly the machining is terrible....

 

Can any one recommend were to buy good ones!!!!!

 

same with wheel bearing unless you buy timkins



#3 minidaves

minidaves

    Up Into Fourth

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,933 posts
  • Location: kent
  • Local Club: mine

Posted 11 June 2017 - 03:12 PM

wheel bearings rhp ball bearings are good, but a lot of whats out there is trash, ball joints i try and find nos but thats getting hard, and major brands just out Chinese in a box :(



#4 AeroNotix

AeroNotix

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 267 posts
  • Location: Krakow (Blackpool, originally)

Posted 11 June 2017 - 03:26 PM

What are the best choices?

 

I just want a ball joint that a) doesn't fall apart, b) favours safety/longevity over fanciness and above all else c) consistency. The genuine parts that are available on minispares/minisport so far seem reasonable. They get very stiff, very quickly (likely I need to start lapping before final fitment?) but the non-genuine ones that Minisport at least carries are utter rubbish! I can't believe they're selling them where the tapered shank bolt is unhardened? Wouldn't that be part of the specification when making a non-OEM part?



#5 sledgehammer

sledgehammer

    Up Into Fourth

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,107 posts
  • Location: I'm sittin here besides my self

Posted 11 June 2017 - 03:31 PM

I bought some mini  QH track rod ends (they said they were on the box - eBay)

 

box looked real

 

track rod ends were a smaller dia on the taper shaft / shank appeared soft & I could feel them stretch as they nipped up

 

went in the bin - annoyingly I couldn't find the seller - bought 6 months earlier

 

problem is they weren't particularly cheap 

 

so cheap isn't always bad , & £xpensive isn't always the best

 

it's 'word of mouth' that is more important

 

I always try minispares for price , then eBay for comparison , but for most safety critical parts minispares


Edited by sledgehammer, 11 June 2017 - 03:35 PM.


#6 1984mini25

1984mini25

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,785 posts
  • Location: -

Posted 11 June 2017 - 03:33 PM

Ive given up with new ball joints they never go together properly the machining is terrible....

 

Can any one recommend were to buy good ones!!!!!

 

same with wheel bearing unless you buy timkins

 

Delphi Ball Joint kit (one hub) - TD229W at around £20.54 each

 

And I've just fitted a Firstline front wheel bearing, witch apart from the shocking delivery (took 5 days to dispatch) Fitted and torqued up ok and seam to be well made.

 

Wheel bearing kit, front disk type - FBK027 at Around £22.24 each.



#7 AeroNotix

AeroNotix

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 267 posts
  • Location: Krakow (Blackpool, originally)

Posted 11 June 2017 - 03:35 PM

What can I do if I torque up the dome nut with no shims + grease and the tapered bolt still doesn't move? Will lapping improve things?



#8 1314cc

1314cc

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 303 posts
  • Local Club: tumbleweedminisbristol

Posted 11 June 2017 - 05:23 PM

Delphi balljoints are good. I've had the same trouble with cheap balljoints!

#9 nicklouse

nicklouse

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,673 posts
  • Location: Not Yorkshire
  • Local Club: Anonyme Miniholiker

Posted 11 June 2017 - 05:55 PM

What can I do if I torque up the dome nut with no shims + grease and the tapered bolt still doesn't move? Will lapping improve things?

add shims to get required movement.



#10 dyshipfakta

dyshipfakta

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,696 posts

Posted 11 June 2017 - 06:08 PM

What can I do if I torque up the dome nut with no shims + grease and the tapered bolt still doesn't move? Will lapping improve things?


Shims make them looser what your describing is normal.

#11 AlexMozza

AlexMozza

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,248 posts
  • Location: Bratton, Wiltshire
  • Local Club: Not Yet

Posted 11 June 2017 - 06:59 PM

I've never had an issue with the ones we sell at Somerford Mini.
I know you will think that I'm just saying this as I work there. But I work in the workshop, fit them regularly and the fit is perfect. The rubbers do not crack after 2 miles either!

#12 grizzler73

grizzler73

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 300 posts
  • Location: Cheshunt

Posted 11 June 2017 - 07:15 PM

I got some NOS Quainton hazel ones off ebay, I only have 2 on my GTM so paying a bit more is not as bad. Otherwise I have minispares metro ball joints for the front alloy hubs which look ok, I would recommend Delphi though. They seem well made.

#13 Rorf

Rorf

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 866 posts
  • Location: Cape Town

Posted 11 June 2017 - 08:22 PM

What can I do if I torque up the dome nut with no shims + grease and the tapered bolt still doesn't move? Will lapping improve things?

 

Now why on earth would you do that :mmkay:



#14 AlexMozza

AlexMozza

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,248 posts
  • Location: Bratton, Wiltshire
  • Local Club: Not Yet

Posted 11 June 2017 - 08:44 PM

What can I do if I torque up the dome nut with no shims + grease and the tapered bolt still doesn't move? Will lapping improve things?


I'm sorry, but right here is why so many people have issues with them failing!

#15 nicklouse

nicklouse

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,673 posts
  • Location: Not Yorkshire
  • Local Club: Anonyme Miniholiker

Posted 11 June 2017 - 08:44 PM

I bought a pre-made swivel hub from minisport a couple of months ago. The one that comes prefitted with ball joints and apparently shimmed properly.

 

This past weekend I went to replace my tie bars (they had a slight S kink to them), obviously being a mini one of the bolts was rusted on so I removed the lower suspension arm along with the tie bar and hammered it out. When I went to replace everything, needing to refit the lower ball joint I found that the threads were completely ruined. Bare in mind this is a new ball joint, installed once and removed once both times the fitting and removal went very smoothly without needing to overly hammer/bash the ball joint to get it out.

 

Simply put, the ball joint's tapered shank bolt is utter and complete garbage. It has less than 2000km on it and has been treat well when serviced. I just don't understand. The grade of material used seems also quite suspect. It does not seem to have been hardened and is easily scuffed, bent and marred.

 

I have several genuine ball joint kits that can use and replace that bolt with. The difference in quality is ridiculous. The bolt is hardened, for example.  

the nuts were not stainless were they?






1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users