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Cleaning Engine Block

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#1 jonlad

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 08:10 PM

Hi folks

 

I have stripped a 1275 metro block and am looking for clever ways to clean out the oil and water ways at home. I have visions of putting it in a big plastic box and putting the garden hose into its orifices but am very scared about making the bores or oil ways rusty. Obviously i'd have to dry it thoroughly, and quickly. I'm thinking heat gun.

 

Also there are three holes on the top face of the block that seem to hold a lot of crud. These are the larger holes on the pushrod side of the block, closest to the bores. If these are oil ways then Theres a lot of crud in them!

 

Any clever ideas for cleaning this out?

 

Thanks in advance

jon


Edited by jonlad, 16 June 2017 - 08:11 PM.


#2 mini13

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 08:11 PM

really the only way to do it properly is to pull the gallery plugs ad get it caustic diped



#3 Spider

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 09:01 PM

You'd be best off paying to have it done, but if you do want to go ahead with it, really you'll want 2 tanks.

 

First one to 'dip' it through would be a caustic solution, if you can heat it, so much the better, but even cold works well. This solution will clean the oil, grease, grime and possibly paint from it. Heated, this usually only needs about 10 - 30 minutes.

 

Wash it very thoroughly before going to the next tank as the caustic is an alkaline solution.

 

Next up, as mini13 has suggested, an Acid bath. I use Phosphoric Acid for this.This is to remove the rust.  On a suggestion. last week I tried a product call Evapo-rust. It did the job but after 1 block the solution had lost it's zing. It was also much slower than the acid. The Phosphoric Acid usually only needs 5 - 10 minutes. To me, this step is very important to allow the cooling system to work properly. Probably 60% or more of run hot / over heating problems I've seen is contributed to or because of a rusted cooling jacket. 1/2" layer of rust has about the same heat transmission capability as 6" of steel plate.

 

Naturally, all Personal Safety will need to be done too, including gloves suitable for chemicals, an apron and a face shield are all strongly recommended. You should also consider how to dispose of these chemicals before setting out too.

 

Also, as min13 suggested, pull all the plugs from the oil ways and the freeze plugs, not only to allow these solutions to get in to where they need to but also for inspection prior to assembly.

 

Coming back to having it done, if you have a few to do, it may pay off to do it yourself, but to do just one block and head it will be far cheaper to have it done.

 

Just working the block over with a garden hose won't do much.



#4 AlexMozza

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 09:41 PM

Just get it dipped, your local machine shop could do this for you

#5 sledgehammer

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 09:49 PM

+ 1 on all the above , def worth while getting the gallery's tapped & plugged after a clean out

 

& core plugs checked

 

I am going to try cola to clean my water jacket out , as it keeps rusting up even with regular fresh antifreeze in it

 

don't know which is best - diet or normal teeth rotting syrup 



#6 Avtovaz

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 09:53 PM

put it in the dish washer when your mrs is out, itll come out loverly



#7 Spider

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 10:06 PM

Oh, and you'll need to pull the Cam Bearing too,,,,,,,



#8 jonlad

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 08:57 AM

Thanks for all the replies folks, you really are a wonderful lot!

 

I'm interested in doing it myself, ultimately i have three blocks to do so this could work out a lot cheaper. caustic soda is readily available as drain cleaner and even phosphoric acid seems easy to get in large quantities online.

 

At the same time i think i'll ring around a couple of local engine remanufacturers just to see what prices will be like.

 

Anyone know what those three larger holes are close to the bores on the pushrod side? I think they are water jacket but not sure.

 

Muchos gracias again

J



#9 limby2000

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 10:23 AM

to be honest, you cant beat doing it manually, i removed all coreplugs prior to having block machine work done by a reputable engine shop in essex. I also had it chemically cleaned, it all looked nice and clean when i got it back, but on inspection i could see lots of rusty crud inside the water jacket, i used a really long and thin screwdriver to scrape inside. It took an hour and half but i filled an half litre tin of rusty crud. Clean now.





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