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Mini Mpi Brake Issues


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#1 scrappy_doo

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Posted 07 August 2017 - 08:41 PM

Got a '97 Mini Cooper Sportspack MPI with brake issues. Had brakes that were sticking so cleaned and lubed calipers, no difference, changed front flexi hoses....no difference so changed master cylinder and on refitting everyting I'm now having difficulties getting a stiff brake. Have bled the brakes using both gunson eezibleed and normal pedal method but still no joy. Rear bleed nipples when using either method are difficult to get fluid out of and the pressure is so weak the fluid bleeds back in on the upward stroke of the brake pedal.

 

Slowly getting very frustrated!



#2 Dusky

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Posted 07 August 2017 - 10:08 PM

If fluids bleeds back in your nippel isnt fully sealing

#3 richmondclassicsnorthwales

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Posted 08 August 2017 - 12:12 PM

Hi,

 

Not the easiest sometimes.

 

You need to put a good bit of fluid through to eliminate all air, the front to rear can chew up a good bit of fluid. You will be surprised at what you do have to put through in order to eliminate air completely

 

If it is sucking fluid back in, something is not tight enough some where



#4 scrappy_doo

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Posted 08 August 2017 - 07:00 PM

Going to change the rear wheel cylinders as they seem a little old and rusted up then relay any progress! 



#5 FlyingScot

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Posted 08 August 2017 - 07:07 PM

Also worth splitting the pipes/hoses on the down stroke to check/ let the air come fully out.
Just did a job on one of mine with a new m/c and couldn't get a decent pedal until I spilt the pipe at the bulkhead connector and then at one of the hose to caliper joints. Air was trapped and despite easibleed wasn't working right until I had done this.

FS

#6 scrappy_doo

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Posted 21 August 2017 - 11:57 PM

Right, changed rear cylinders, bled through with a "reasonable" pedal feel. Driving it and still got sticking brakes though not as bad as before but still wrong, Whats's next other than the servo?  O_O



#7 cian

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Posted 22 August 2017 - 08:14 AM

Proportioning valve on bulkhead?

#8 scrappy_doo

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Posted 22 August 2017 - 09:58 AM

I've had that off and cleaned it. I'm thinking servo as it happens as you use the car then if left for half hour they release and come on again if you drive any distance.



#9 scrappy_doo

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Posted 23 August 2017 - 02:18 PM

I'm thinking of changing the servo but looking at the options the repair kit seems good value but reading into them it seems you need to make yourself a tool for the spring part of it. Also I've noticed certain people seem to think there's a different bleed order to what I used. I went with what I read for my age MPI's which was FL, FR, RL, RR (the side is taken from the perspective of being behind the wheel of a RHD). Would you guys agree with this?



#10 nicklouse

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Posted 23 August 2017 - 02:30 PM

I'm thinking of changing the servo but looking at the options the repair kit seems good value but reading into them it seems you need to make yourself a tool for the spring part of it. Also I've noticed certain people seem to think there's a different bleed order to what I used. I went with what I read for my age MPI's which was FL, FR, RL, RR (the side is taken from the perspective of being behind the wheel of a RHD). Would you guys agree with this?

you always bleed starting from the furthest away. so for your seated in a RHD car

RL-RR then FL-FR



#11 scrappy_doo

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Posted 24 August 2017 - 01:21 PM

Bit the bullet and purchased a new servo....lets hope it sorts it!



#12 tiger99

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Posted 24 August 2017 - 07:54 PM

I assume you have some clearance at the pedal, i.e. the travel stop or brake light switch is not putting slight pressure on the push rod? Not so easy to see if there is clearance between servo and master cylinder, but at least the pedal side of things should be completely slack when foot is off pedal.

 

If not, one or both master cylinder reservoir ports may be partially covered which will hinder bleeding and make the brakes stick on.






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