27 replies to this topic

[nicklouse]

So, just so we dont go off on a tangent with road cars.
 
Race car.

 
cooling set up based on the MPi but no heater and there is a take off on the head.
 

 
so i was thinking about having a electric on/off temp sensing switch to work with the electric fan and also with the (not yet fitted) electric water pump.
i do have a capillary type but not keen in the fitting method.
 
then i remembered i had

 Ohh thread the outlet and blank it off  and use a sensor hole for a sensor.
 
hang on why not use the outlet like

 current set up is like the above but without the sandwich block and connecting pipe. the bottom hose is just closed off.
 
so thoughts? restrictors?

[Spider]

For the type of set up your think about, I've done it where it comes off the Heater Take Off on the Head and plumbed in to the Top Tank of the Radiator. While it might be an easy way to do this by plumbing it to the top hose, I didn't as I didn't want to take away from the capacity of that pipework nor add any hot coolant to it.

 

The idea is to get some of the hot coolant from the far side of the head in to the radiator for cooling.

 

It worked well, but I needed to spend a bit more time on it, valving this pipe (from the heater take off) while monitoring this temp, the head temp (at each end) and also the normal top outlet temp to get it balanced. Or maybe just fit separate match Thermostats could be an option?

 

I'll also add, if there isn't currently a problem, don't go over complicating matters - it will let you down at the worst possible time.

[nicklouse]

just found something that i like

https://www.carbuild...ostat-capillary

 

as i already have this

 

but i may still look at a switch that i can screw into the sandwich plate of into the current plug in the bottom hose?

 

i have options.

[Spider]

Sorry Nick - I was off on the wrong tangent !!

 

If the Thermoswitch for the fan is adjustable in it's On / OFF Temp, then it really doesn't matter where it's plumbed in as long as there's a reasonably constant flow. You can then tweak the Temp form the adjustable switch.

IMO, I would suggest around the Thermostat itself, like in the sandwich plate as you are thinking of.

 

And yes, that Brass fitting would make like easy.

Edited by Moke Spider, 12 August 2017 - 10:18 PM.

[nicklouse]

i thought you were.

 

now you are back. would you connect the outlet from the sandwich to the bottom hose giving two feeds to the bottom hose from the head or blank it?

[Spider]

i thought you were.

 

now you are back. would you connect the outlet from the sandwich to the bottom hose giving two feeds to the bottom hose from the head or blank it?

 

 

 NO !!!

 

Absolutely NO.

 

Blank them.

[nicklouse]

going to keep things as they are and fit one of these in the top hose so temp measured when stat open.

 

[Spider]

~~~  Yeah ~~~ only 'thing' being there's not normally enough length in the top hose to fit much at all.

[nicklouse]

~~~  Yeah ~~~ only 'thing' being there's not normally enough length in the top hose to fit much at all.

see the images. loads of room. MPi set up and i already have a joiner in it so just swap out just not ideal in regards to the wiring.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Can I just jump in a minute. Currently doing a search on which way the water flows (Non mpi). And this post popped up. Considering you 2 are the most likely to answer if a started another post thought I would ask directly . Deciding on where to attach my heater hose, I want to take it from the hot part of the system. Does the water go in at the top of the rad and out at the bottom (so the pump draws it from the rad) or does it flow in the bottom and out of the top (so the pump draws from the block). I just can't find a definitive answer anywhere. Fyi I am using the original type valve on the head original type take off next to cylinder 4.

[nicklouse]

bottom of Rad is cold.

 

the hot water leaves the head via the thermostat and then enters the rad for cooling.

 

so heater hose out of head (or off sandwich plate) to heater and then the return goes into the bottom hose.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Cheers nick

[skoughi]

Removed my comment.

Edited by skoughi, 09 November 2017 - 06:22 PM.

[Northernpower]

Don't know if it's any use but I'll add my two pence worth. I have a front mounted rad in my clubman with expansion tank. I also have a late model heater which has the flow/no flow valve mounted at the heater inside the car. I have the heater takeoff at no 4 cylinder end of the head as usual, pipe then goes around the back of the rocker cover and into the inside of the car for the heater. Before it goes into the bulkhead I have a piggyback pipe coming off the supply pipe that sits on top of the pipe then back to the water pump, there's a small air bleed pipe from the highest point that goes to the expansion tank. If the heater is over supplied with water then this allows water to go up and around and into the pump again. The whole point of this is to hopefully have a bypass set up that constantly takes water from the no4 end of the cylinder head whether the heater is needing water or not. I know you aren't using a heater but couldn't this way work for a bypass and plumb it straight into the pipe going into the pump?

https://drive.google...iew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google...iew?usp=sharing

I know Nick is not bothered about a road car problem but just out of interest I don't understand how that forces water through the heater matrix because you have the flow and return through the same pipe. How hot does the heater get?

[skoughi]

Comment removed.

Edited by skoughi, 09 November 2017 - 06:23 PM.