
Slight Pull To The Left
#1
Posted 14 August 2017 - 01:03 PM
After fitting adjustable tierods (adjusted to std lenght) and fitting negative camber bottom arms , my mini slightly pulls to the left.
My tracking had changed from 1.6mm toe out to 2.3mm toe out, I adjusted this back to 1.6mm and adjusted Both sides equally. AM I right thinking that the slight pull to the left ( noticable when you take your hands of the steering wheel , it doesnt go straight but Goes to the left side of the road) is because of the tie rods/caster not being spot on?
In know, "Just get your tracking/caster Done at a tyre shop" but I dont have a shop that can do 12" wheels near me. Would order a caster gauge / recheck the tie rod lenght if you Guys think thats the problem.
Cheers
#2
Posted 14 August 2017 - 01:22 PM
Are you sure your subframe is rectangular? And is the body square? And sit the subframes parallel on the body?
#3
Posted 14 August 2017 - 01:23 PM
As a general rule, it is inaccurate caster which makes a car pull to one side. The car pulling to the left would indicate that the left front wheel is too far back, or the right front too far forward. It may mean the caster will be slightly different when the car doesn't 'pull' to one side.
You could try measuring the distance to the front from the back. Don't measure to the wheel centre, measure to the bottom of the lower arm where the tie-bar bolts on from the rear sub-frame forward face. See if it's the same both sides (I appreciate this is just a rough check). Adjust that dimension to make each side the same, re-track and try it on the road.
Of course, it could be something as simple as the tyres. I changed the tyres on my Land-Rover, which pulled very slightly to the left, and the new tyres cured the problem. All I did was to have it re-tracked at the time, but tracking would normally not cause the car to pull to one side.
Try winding the left side forward a bit using the adjustable tie-bar and test it.
#4
Posted 14 August 2017 - 03:56 PM
Subframe should be straight, and thee should be fine as if only developed after I changed the Bottom arms and tie bars.
Ill try measuring it tomorrow :)
#5
Posted 14 August 2017 - 04:10 PM
Try shortening the tie bar on the left a bit, maybe 4 or 5 mm, then drive it and see if that improves it. When it drives straight just get it tracked again.
#6
Posted 14 August 2017 - 07:42 PM
#7
Posted 14 August 2017 - 09:26 PM
#8
Posted 14 August 2017 - 09:33 PM
One full turn of the track rod end will change wheel toe-out by a lot more than 1.27mm (due to lever ratio)
#9
Posted 14 August 2017 - 10:13 PM
#10
Posted 15 August 2017 - 10:38 PM
Would order a caster gauge / recheck the tie rod lenght if you Guys think thats the problem.
Cheers
That is part of what you need to measure it, you also need a set of turntables that have angles marked on them.
I've set them close but setting both sides close to standard length and then test driving it on a flat road (check tyre pressures). I then feel under power and then under brakes if it's pulling one way, the I continue to shorten that side's caster bar 1/2 turn each time, until I no longer feel it pull. Then I continue in this way, keeping track of how many 1/2 turns I adjust in, until it pulls the other way, then wind it back 1/2 of that number turns. It won't be spot on, but close.
The other thing that does need to be kept an eye on is the camber while doing this, as adjusting one affects the other, so you'll go around in decreasing (hopefully!) circles for a while.
I also keep a bit of an eye on toe as well, as this too will change, I don't worry too much about it unless it starts getting crazy, as excessive toe out it will take away from the feel while excessive toe in will make the back feel 'jumpy'
Once I get the camber & caster right, then set the toe last.
#11
Posted 15 August 2017 - 10:53 PM
Turntables (excuse all the other crap)
This is my own home-brew Camber Gauge
You can easily read down to 1/4 degree (25')
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