21 replies to this topic

[fenghuang]

Having had the swivel hub off one side, I'm now trying to do the other, and the top ball joint wont split.

 

A scissor type splitted hasn't shifted it. (It's a Sykes, so isn't the the cheapest, and I would have hoped that would do the job. But I'd swear it's a little bent as a result.)
Hitting it with a hammer hasn't shifted it.
Using the scissor splitter and hitting it hasn't worked.

 

I'm considering using heat next. Any thoughts before I do. (I've got the old rubber covers from the other side if I melt this one.)

[nicklouse]

keep winding that bolt. and tapping the end. it will go with a great big bang.

[Northernpower]

Having had the swivel hub off one side, I'm now trying to do the other, and the top ball joint wont split.

 

A scissor type splitted hasn't shifted it. (It's a Sykes, so isn't the the cheapest, and I would have hoped that would do the job. But I'd swear it's a little bent as a result.)
Hitting it with a hammer hasn't shifted it.
Using the scissor splitter and hitting it hasn't worked.

 

I'm considering using heat next. Any thoughts before I do. (I've got the old rubber covers from the other side if I melt this one.)

It will come off with the splitter but make sure you have the splitter fully on and the top of the nut level with the top of the pin, otherwise it will squash the threads and you'll end up sawing the pin off. When you've got it real tight hit it on the side and eventually it wil give. Just wait for the loud crack when it gives.

[neal]

I put a trolley jack under the bottom ball joint nut and raise the suspension, then remove the bottom rubber bump stop pad under the top arm and pack it with a chock of wood or a nut, then remove the trolley jack,  this reduces the downward pressure on the top ball joint as the suspension is compressed a little and also easier to undo the lower arm from the bottom ball joint. Sometimes turning the steering onto full lock especially for the lower ball joint helps but try a bit of penetrating oil and see if that helps too.

 

This works for me bearing in mind that all my components are powder coated so I can't afford to swing a hammer too much or use heat, I think it could be a case of 'It aint what you do, it's the way that you do it and that's what gets results'

 

Let it soak in some penetrating oil and go back to it with a fresh mind, minis can be very frustrating some days yet the love of your life another.

Edited by neal, 14 August 2017 - 04:56 PM.

[fenghuang]

I've wound the splitter's bolt in till I've all but run out of thread.
I've put another 2mm steel plate between the splitter's arm and the bolt.

I've heated the end of suspension arm. (I've only got a mini blow torch but it gets the metal pretty hot.)

I've hit it as hard as I can, repeatedly, with a decent size hammer to try to shock it off.

I've done all the above again ... and done them together.

The little ****er won't shift.

[nicklouse]

just leave it there and have your supper and hit it in the morning.

[fenghuang]

just leave it there and have your supper and hit it in the morning.

Lunch didn't help.
Nor a mug of tea and a slice of cake mid afternoon.
I've no reason to think supper will be any more effective.

[hunterg30]

Try the 2 prong fork type of splitter on it .

[richmondclassicsnorthwales]

Heat should do it

 

I have normally cracked it with heat, a good burn for a good ten minutes, direct heat, making sure you get the tip if the flame on the point to split.

 

Last chance saloon, drill directly down in the shank of the ball joint with a 10mm drill, then heat again, and go for the splitter.

 

I used to use the wedge type splitter, and then hit it with a 2lb hammer. It is only a very few occasions I have had to cut the shank clean off, then cut with a fine cutting disc against the nut of the ball joint to in effect split the actual nut itself. 

 

Then it was a case of making sure not to damage the thread on the hub, and cleaning up by drilling out the crap left in the top arm or bottom arm dependent on which joint was stuck fast.

Edited by richmondclassicsnorthwales, 14 August 2017 - 05:27 PM.

[mk1leg]

as above use the fork splitter and a Lump hammer this will shift it

[nicklouse]

as above use the fork splitter and a Lump hammer this will shift it

or split the fork. the Draper and others Cast ones are not good.

[fenghuang]

or split the fork. the Draper and others Cast ones are not good.

Is anything forged better? There's a forged tool from Machine Mart but it seems to cheap to be true.

Edited by Deathrow, 16 August 2017 - 03:11 PM.
Fixed quote.

[nicklouse]

my old and new

 

old is about 30 years old and got everything off. needed to mod it to get a T4 ball joint off so will not fit Mini ones now. little one works well for what i need now.

[fenghuang]

My old and new.
 

 
The one on the right is a Sykes Pickavant. That almost ran out of thread and started to bend before it would split the joint.
The one on the left is a cast Clarke item bought today. I guess you get what you pay for. (Just in case anyone ever doubts the Gospel according to Nicklouse. )

Edited by fenghuang, 15 August 2017 - 03:15 PM.

[nicklouse]

My old and new.
 

 
The one on the right is a Sykes Pickavant. That almost ran out of thread and started to bend before it would split the joint.
The one on the left is a cast Clarke item bought today. I guess you get what you pay for. (Just in case anyone ever doubts the Gospel according to Nicklouse. )

is there meant to be an image?