10 replies to this topic

[Austifiniho]

Was trundleling along nicely when the car just gave up and died at about 50/60mph.

Couldn't bump start it and it sounded like it would start after being sprayed with some starter fluid. So no fuel!

Took the fuel pump out and it would pump with 12v. Put it back in and the fuel pump made its usual noises on start up.

Took the manifold off and just angled it out of the cylinder head and put a bit of paper over the injectors, cranked and nothing is coming out.

Seems to me all is fine but the injectors aren't actuating.
I ran the fuel pump directly off 12v and then tried to start the car and nothing, the rail is getting pressurised as I've had it apart a few times and it keeps filling up with petrol.

Just the injectors not doing their thing.

I'm on my own so it's kind of hard testing stuff on my own.
Pretty sure I've got spark as the car started to splutter a bit with the starter fluid.

What to check next? I've cleaned up the grounds in the engine bay and the inertia switch has been pushed enough times for a lifetime

[AeroNotix]

Just FYI people reading this. It's a 2000 MPI.

[FlyingScot]

Immobiliser?
The MFU (relay pack) controls the fuel pump after getting the signal from the MEMS ECU, this pressurises the fuel rail.
The pump is cut out under certain conditions, including the cut out switch, the immobiliser and a missing crank sense.
Missing crank sense will mean the ECU doesn't know when to pulse the injectors so I would check this first.
Goes without saying that really you need diagnostics on these as it's difficult to "see" what's going on without this

FS

[Austifiniho]

Well I tried to remove my crank position sensor to see if I could visually see anything wrong with it and ended up destroying the thing

Definitely need a new one now so I'll get the new sensor and go from there

[Austifiniho]

Okay so I replaced the crank position sensor and then the car started right up!!

But unfortunately only for about ten seconds, there was squeaking and weird noises, so I shut the car off and took the crank sensor out and the tip of the sensor had been smashed up a bit.

I have had the clutch badly reassembled previously and had to open it up and re tighten the outer bolts on the diaphragm

What would cause the flywheel / reluctor ring to move over too close to the sensor?

[AeroNotix]

Another question, will the machining of the crank position sensor tip damage the reluctor in any way?

 

Some more context:

 

• Differential needed replacing
• Whole engine was taken to a gearbox specialist for rebuilding
• Clutch was replaced at the same time
• Rest of gearbox was reconditioned
• Clutch diaphragm was not bolted down properly
• Above issue was found and dealt with
• Several issues with potential electrical problems (http://www.theminifo...mpi-sportspack/)
• Car died at speed, unable to start
• Crank position sensor was on the short list for culprits
• Crank position sensor was removed, though destroyed getting it out. However, through the crank sensor hole we can see damage on the flywheel: https://photos.googl...XI4ckJVdnJpUjNn (not sure if that link will work)
• Here is where Austin posted again

 

Some notes:
 

• During the gearbox rebuild the crank endfloat was checked and deemed to be within spec. Could that have been incorrect?
• Could the loose clutch diaphragm have knocked the flywheel loose?
• Austin has tried poking the flywheel through the crank sensor hole to see if it's loose, he can't seem to move it (though he is a puny human).

Edited by AeroNotix, 30 August 2017 - 12:44 PM.

[mini13]

it sounds to me like the clutch diaghram not being bolted on correctly has caused the reluctor rin on the back of the flywheel to become loose or damaged, and as a result it contacting the crank sensor.

 

Flywheel will need to come off for inspection, and probably a new reluctor ring.

[AeroNotix]

Thanks for the info. Austin is currently taking the flywheel off as we speak. I'm sure he'll post pictures when it's off.

[mini13]

this shows what they look like.

 

http://www.turbomini...p=vt&tid=129155

Edited by mini13, 30 August 2017 - 03:21 PM.

[Austifiniho]

Okay so what has happened:

The diaphragm to flywheel bolts rattled loose as previously mentioned and I opened the clutch case with the engine still in the car which probably helped me miss this. So I tightened the loosened outer bolts and hit them up with loctite.. but I didn't really know the locating dowel on the flywheel was a thing:

https://www.minispar...|Back to search

So I tighten the bolts up and I've done about 100 miles on the car over about 3/4 weeks, there has been a rattle in the engine area, but then the thing just stopped working without much of a noise or anything, which led me down the route of sensors/electrical problem...

Replaced the crack position sensor, the car lived and the car died quite soon after. Took the crank position sensor out and it was scratched up on the end.( don't know if it's still fit for purpose...)
So I take the clutch case off again, and now take the clutch and flywheel off and I see these in the casing,
These have done some rattling about:
 IMG_1541.PNG   503.67K   0 downloads

And found their way to the reluctor ring:
 IMG_1537.PNG   408.33K   0 downloads

And the engine side of the flywheel seems to have been rubbing on the casing when the bolts were loose or the dowels got to it or both:
 IMG_1558.PNG   311.38K   0 downloads

Anyway, new flywheel and it should work if the crank sensor hasn't lost much length

[Steve220]

I'd be looking to see if the crank nose and primary gear are ok too.