
Sticky Clutch
#1
Posted 22 September 2017 - 08:28 AM
If i dont keep it pressed down for a long time it doesnt stick? For now im having to remember to shift to neutral at every traffic light which is a bit annoying.
The range of travel where the clutch actuates is also very narrow. I wonder how to adjust it so that i can have a bit better clutch control
#2
Posted 22 September 2017 - 08:45 AM
I have a problem with my clutch. If i step on it hard all the way and keep my foot there for some time(such as at a traffic light) it tends to not release at times. What could be the problem?
If i dont keep it pressed down for a long time it doesnt stick? For now im having to remember to shift to neutral at every traffic light which is a bit annoying.
The range of travel where the clutch actuates is also very narrow. I wonder how to adjust it so that i can have a bit better clutch control
It sounds like the hydraulics are losing pressure.
#3
Posted 22 September 2017 - 09:10 AM
Check the rubber hose it's probably rotten on the inside
#4
Posted 22 September 2017 - 09:14 AM
And never start the car with the clutch pedal pushed down for the same reason.
#5
Posted 22 September 2017 - 09:42 AM
You should never sit with the clutch down and the engine running for more than a very short time. It puts clutch spring loaded onto the crankshaft thrust bearings and causes premature excess crank end float.
And never start the car with the clutch pedal pushed down for the same reason.
I have tried explaining this to the wife. Oh no! she knows better and im just patronizing her.
#6
Posted 22 September 2017 - 01:55 PM
Will check the rubber first and report back. Hydraulic pressure the only other likely cause? Whats the right way to investigate that?
#7
Posted 22 September 2017 - 01:57 PM
Am aware that keeping the clutch prematurely wears out the bearings. Not too concerned with that. Its a habit that this problem will no doubt work to reducing.
Will check the rubber first and report back. Hydraulic pressure the only other likely cause? Whats the right way to investigate that?
Press the clutch down with the engine off and and measure how much the master cylinder has pushed the slave piston out. Keep it held down and see if the travel has reduced.
Edited by Northernpower, 22 September 2017 - 01:57 PM.
#8
Posted 23 September 2017 - 10:23 AM
The description of the problem is a bit ambiguous. But, if others have assumed, the clutch does disengage fully when pressed, but starts to re-engage slowly as the pedal is held down, one of two things is happening. Firstly, the slave cylinder is leaking, which will be very evident, or secondly, the master cylinder is leaking. If it leaks internally, back to the reservoir, there will be no visible sign and no fluid loss. However it may leak through its end seal into the pedal area, again easy but somewhat awkward to check.
But it seems to me that the description could suggest that it wants to stay disengaged after a while, which would be all sorts of minor mechanical maladies like the pedal sticking on its shaft, or a bulging seal in the master cylinder. I did the calculations in a previous post somewhere to prove that neither a stuck slave cylinder (or operating lever, clutch plunger etc) nor blocked hose would prevent the pedal return spring bringing the pedal back up, but either would hold the clutch in the disengaged state.
You can easily tell if that is happening. Pedal comes up almost as normal, but there is very little or no drive immediately.
As has been explained already, you can check out almost all of that by observing the clutch operating lever while you have someone press and hold the pedal. If it is the first option, give the hydraulics a complete overhaul with at least new seals and hose, and of course fresh fluid, as all the parts tend to wear out together.
#9
Posted 23 September 2017 - 03:15 PM
The description of the problem is a bit ambiguous. But, if others have assumed, the clutch does disengage fully when pressed, but starts to re-engage slowly as the pedal is held down, one of two things is happening. Firstly, the slave cylinder is leaking, which will be very evident, or secondly, the master cylinder is leaking. If it leaks internally, back to the reservoir, there will be no visible sign and no fluid loss. However it may leak through its end seal into the pedal area, again easy but somewhat awkward to check.
But it seems to me that the description could suggest that it wants to stay disengaged after a while, which would be all sorts of minor mechanical maladies like the pedal sticking on its shaft, or a bulging seal in the master cylinder. I did the calculations in a previous post somewhere to prove that neither a stuck slave cylinder (or operating lever, clutch plunger etc) nor blocked hose would prevent the pedal return spring bringing the pedal back up, but either would hold the clutch in the disengaged state.
You can easily tell if that is happening. Pedal comes up almost as normal, but there is very little or no drive immediately.
As has been explained already, you can check out almost all of that by observing the clutch operating lever while you have someone press and hold the pedal. If it is the first option, give the hydraulics a complete overhaul with at least new seals and hose, and of course fresh fluid, as all the parts tend to wear out together.
Thanks for the suggestions. There are I guess two problems Im describing.
The first and more problematic issue is that if the clutch pedal is pressed hard and held there for some time, it occasionally sticks to the floor. In this case the clutch is disengaging properly, but doesnt want to re-engage. I have to forcibly lift the pedal off with my hand to re-engage the clutch.
The second one is that most of the clutch pedal travel is useless. Its only towards the very end that the clutch disengages. I dont have a problem with clutch control, but would prefer a greater operating travel for easier fine control, though even now I dont have any trouble doing hill starts without the handbrake.
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