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Today’S Problems. Starter Motor? Clutch?


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#16 TheFabMini

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 05:46 PM

Clutch slave cylinder fitted... bled and still the same :(
Very short clutch pedal, feels like it isnt fully returning and it sits a lot lower than the brake pedal....

With the engine off I put the clutch pedal down and put the car in gear and i cant roll the car so the clutch isnt disengaging....
help!!!!

#17 Northernpower

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 06:53 PM

Clutch slave cylinder fitted... bled and still the same :(
Very short clutch pedal, feels like it isnt fully returning and it sits a lot lower than the brake pedal....

With the engine off I put the clutch pedal down and put the car in gear and i cant roll the car so the clutch isnt disengaging....
help!!!!

I'm assuming you backed off the throw out stop nut?



#18 TheFabMini

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 07:01 PM


Clutch slave cylinder fitted... bled and still the same :(
Very short clutch pedal, feels like it isnt fully returning and it sits a lot lower than the brake pedal....

With the engine off I put the clutch pedal down and put the car in gear and i cant roll the car so the clutch isnt disengaging....
help!!!!

I'm assuming you backed off the throw out stop nut?

I have no idea what thats is... so Im gonna assume I havent. (Be gentle with me Im still a mini newbie!)

#19 Northernpower

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 10:04 PM


Clutch slave cylinder fitted... bled and still the same :(
Very short clutch pedal, feels like it isnt fully returning and it sits a lot lower than the brake pedal....

With the engine off I put the clutch pedal down and put the car in gear and i cant roll the car so the clutch isnt disengaging....
help!!!!

I'm assuming you backed off the throw out stop nut?
I have no idea what thats is... so Im gonna assume I havent. (Be gentle with me Im still a mini newbie!)
It's the big nut on the shaft coming out of the centre of the wok, its locked with a second nut. This shaft is actuated by the clutch arm. The lock nuts stop the clutch release bearing going in too far. If it's not backed off enough it won't allow the clutch to disengage.

#20 TheFabMini

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 04:41 PM

[quote name="Northernpower" post="3498423" timestamp="1506722663"]

[quote name="ChrisRuffell" post="3498379" timestamp="1506711686"][quote name="Northernpower" post
]It's the big nut on the shaft coming out of the centre of the wok, its locked with a second nut. This shaft is actuated by the clutch arm. The lock nuts stop the clutch release bearing going in too far. If it's not backed off enough it won't allow the clutch to disengage.[/quote]


Will have a look into this tomorrow. Wouldnt this have been a problem before though? The clutch was working fine. It wasnt until I run the car for about 15 minutes and changed gears a few times that it started to feel wrong

#21 Northernpower

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 09:41 PM



[quote name="ChrisRuffell" post="3498379" timestamp="1506711686"][quote name="Northernpower" post
]It's the big nut on the shaft coming out of the centre of the wok, its locked with a second nut. This shaft is actuated by the clutch arm. The lock nuts stop the clutch release bearing going in too far. If it's not backed off enough it won't allow the clutch to disengage.



Will have a look into this tomorrow. Wouldnt this have been a problem before though? The clutch was working fine. It wasnt until I run the car for about 15 minutes and changed gears a few times that it started to feel wrong

I wasn't aware it was ok . You are correct, it would have been a problem before but you may as well check it out.



#22 Stevie W

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Posted 01 October 2017 - 01:26 PM

It could be that the ball on the inner end of the clutch arm has worn or even broken off, this might explain why the clutch was ok then suddenly stopped working correctly. The ball engages with a machined hole in the clutch release bearing plunger. Theres a split pin which holds the arm in the centre boss of the wok, which is retained by a split pin.
Removal is fairly easy and this should tell you whether the ball is worn/broken!

One thing to check, which Cooperman always states to check is that you have at least 0.5 inches linear movement at the top of the clutch arm which is needed to ensure correct clutch operation!

Cheers, Steve

Edited by Stevie W, 01 October 2017 - 01:30 PM.


#23 TheFabMini

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Posted 01 October 2017 - 07:23 PM

It could be that the ball on the inner end of the clutch arm has worn or even broken off, this might explain why the clutch was ok then suddenly stopped working correctly. The ball engages with a machined hole in the clutch release bearing plunger. Theres a split pin which holds the arm in the centre boss of the wok, which is retained by a split pin.
Removal is fairly easy and this should tell you whether the ball is worn/broken!

One thing to check, which Cooperman always states to check is that you have at least 0.5 inches linear movement at the top of the clutch arm which is needed to ensure correct clutch operation!

Cheers, Steve


Thanks for the advice, when I get chance to venture to the garage Ill have a look at this.
When I push the clutch pedal I can see the slave cylinder moving so Im guessing the master cylinder is good...
it does just seem like the clutch pedal has somehow moved down ablut 2 inches... and like it needs to be pushed 2 inches through the floor for it to work properly.

#24 TheFabMini

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Posted 02 October 2017 - 06:13 PM

Right, Ive had the arm off.. doesnt look to badly worn. Based on the minispares website its not the original one anyways so it looks like someones done this job before!
Cleaned everything up, put some fresh grease back in and put it all back together and it now seems I have a working clutch! Ive rocked the car in gear with the engine off and when I push the clutch down it now rolls..

One thing which I think isnt correct is the wok and lock nut thing. They were both loose and had a few mm gap between them... how far from the gearbox housing should it be? And Im assuming it is supposed to be nice and tight together (the wok thing and nut)

Attached File  15A0446E-E2D6-4F16-9AA2-19F3A59A6B0A.jpeg   63.69K   0 downloadsAttached File  ED633948-A0B7-4ECB-80A4-32ECFA7C63E4.jpeg   46.54K   0 downloads

#25 Northernpower

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Posted 02 October 2017 - 08:47 PM

The arm looks fine, just make sure the clevis pins throughout the linkage are good. Press the clutch fully in and set the inner lock nut to 6.5mm clearance off the wok and tighten up the outer nut to lock them in place. You're only doing this on a verto to stop the clutch going over centre. It won't need any further adjustment as the verto is self adjusting.

#26 TheFabMini

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Posted 03 October 2017 - 06:07 PM

Ive held the clutch pedal down with a bit of wood and spaced it out about 6mm and let the clutch off. Does this look about right? This is a photo from the clutch pedal being up. Attached File  407D0ADA-77EF-44FD-819D-9A0EBB3B5806.jpeg   57.73K   1 downloads

#27 Northernpower

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Posted 03 October 2017 - 08:24 PM

Ive held the clutch pedal down with a bit of wood and spaced it out about 6mm and let the clutch off. Does this look about right? This is a photo from the clutch pedal being up. attachicon.gif407D0ADA-77EF-44FD-819D-9A0EBB3B5806.jpeg

It's what it looks like with the clutch pedal down that matters.






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