8 replies to this topic

[Tabs1968]

Hi, mini friends, is there any local garages who can replace my steering rack, seem to be struggling to find someone,l live in the Lancashire area.

[GraemeC]

Lancashire is a big area! Be a bit more precise if you want local recommendations.

Otherwise somewhere like MiniSport at Padiham would obviously be able to do it.

[gazza82]

OPs location is showing as Wigan ..

[cal844]

It's a big job, subframe (and engine etc) need dropped about 8 inches, then forward a bit too.

Disconnect the
Track rod ends before beginning

Battery positive terminal

Clutch slave cylinder from the mounting bracket

Fuel pipe onto pump from back of car

All subframe mounts

Top engine stabiliser

Steering rack pinch bolt needs removed (sits in a groove)

Edited by cal844, 21 October 2017 - 08:04 PM.

[tiger99]

You often don;'t need the 8 full inch drop, fortunately. Maybe 8 cm, but you can go to 8 inches if you really must. You only need enough of a gap to wriggle the rack out. At 8 inches the subframe is virtually out of the car.  Last time I did one I loosened the front mounts (VERY loose!) and removed the top and toeboard bolts only, so it pivoted down from the front, enabling the movement to be controlled. I had the exhaust off already for other reasons, and I don't see how you could do the job without disconnecting it, or having to lower the subframe much more at the front than the back. But there is one more thing, you need to disconnect the brake pipe from the PRV to the front right hand brake hose on the subframe, or you will stress the flares, or worse, and risk leakage.

 

Please do ensure that you follow the very important procedure in the Haynes manual for aligning the rack and column exactly, and that the anti-friction strips on the rack U bolts are in place. You will probably know that, after aligning and tightening up,  the rack needs to be centred using a 6mm pin in the appropriate place before roughly setting the tracking, and at the same time setting the steering wheel on its splines correctly. (Hopefully your new rack does have a centering hole with removable plug, some a push fit and others needing an Allen key. As a result of penny pinching some later racks do not.) Then it can be driven to your local tyre dealer for accurate tracking.

 

I suggest getting 2 rack U bolts and anti-friction strips, 4 new nylok nuts, and a steering column pinch bolt and nut before you start, as they often need replacing, and it is best to be prepared. The rack U bolts are rather special and are often damaged while persuading them to come out, and you should never re-use nylok nuts in safety critical situations.

 

Warning! It is often FILTHY in the rack area, a sticky mess of oil from the breathers, random leakage etc, combined with road dirt, arguably the filthiest part of the car. I suggest disposable gloves and lots of cleaning cloths, etc, and your oldest and shabbiest set of overalls. Have fun!

[stevegrabba]

For a typical steering rack replacement that doesn't encounter too many problems, how long does it take from start to finish?  And how much would you expect to pay at an average garage?

[L3YLND]

For a typical steering rack replacement that doesn't encounter too many problems, how long does it take from start to finish?  And how much would you expect to pay at an average garage?

Mine was in the shop for a full day, cost me around $450 AUD plus $120AUD for the rack.

[AlexMozza]

Should take any competent mechanic 2-3hours to do.
Also allowing for setting up the tracking too.

[cal844]

Took us 4 hours all in, due to a couple minor issues.

New Steering rack had to be recentered( didn't have the hole for the pin)
Cleaned floor and then bled brakes...

My friend done the tracking at his garage

Oh also use triumph track rod ends as they are longer so you get more thread engagement (instead of the 5 threads with standard mini items)

Edited by cal844, 24 October 2017 - 12:45 PM.