14 replies to this topic

[Anthony30]

Anyone know of a conversion kit for the fan belt? I would like a v poly belt set-up, like the MPI, with a tensioner. I would be looking at a full kit inc pulleys, preferably with a trigger wheel (36-1).

 

[Anthony30]

[nicklouse]

nope.

 

why do you need two tensioners? nothing wrong with the standard set up.

Edited by nicklouse, 29 October 2017 - 01:13 PM.

[Anthony30]

nope.

 

why do you need two tensioners? nothing wrong with the standard set up.

It's forever squealing, but is tensioned correctly, and can't see any contamination on the belt. The belt is only a couple of months old from M/S. The noise drives me nuts.

[nicklouse]

sounds like it is not tensioned correctly then.

 

if you really want you could get all the pits to modify your current set up except for the belt.

[Steve220]

If the belt has been slipping, its likely the pulleys are polished. Worth roughing them up with some heavy grit sandpaper.

[cal844]

Clean the pulleys and fit a new belt

[Cooperman]

Check to see if the pulleys are aligned correctly.
A correctly tensioned belt will not squeal if the pulleys are in line and the belt correctly tensioned.

[jonlad]

try speaking to mini spares, there is this

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

 

See below the description where it says 'kits containing this product' ...   though for some reason the link doesn't work.

 

http://www.minispare...-belt-drive-kit

 

Cheers

​

[Anthony30]

try speaking to mini spares, there is this

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

 

See below the description where it says 'kits containing this product' ...   though for some reason the link doesn't work.

 

http://www.minispare...-belt-drive-kit

 

Cheers

​

Simon said they don't sell that particular kit anymore.

[Icey]

This is one of those times you need to think - There are thousands of cars working normally, why is mine behaving differently?.

If every car with a single-v belt squealed then wed all have switched to multi-v years ago.....and yet we havent.

Edited by Icey, 29 October 2017 - 10:56 PM.

[Mini Manannán]

This is one of those times you need to think - There are thousands of cars working normally, why is mine behaving differently?.

If every car with a single-v belt squealed then wed all have switched to multi-v years ago.....and yet we havent.

 

I agree with Icey, you're over-thinking it.  The standard set-up works well.

[jonlad]

is it the right length belt? Bit of a long shot but I know there are a number of lengths available to suit different pulley sizes...

[Cooperman]

A correctly fitted belt and accurately aligned pulleys will not cause any belt squeal.

Check pulley alignment and add shims/washers to accurately align the pulleys (normally it will be the alternator pulley which is slightly out of line). Then check belt length and adjust the belt tension. It should be fairly tight.

[[email protected]]

A quick test is turning on all your electrics, headlights, rear heater screen, flashers, even step on your brakes to illuminate those bulbs and listen for more squeal.

This loads up the alternator and makes it more resistant to spinning with the belt. If the squeal gets louder, then your belt is too loose.

Another quick test to confirm your belt is loose and slipping vs. misalignment (or a bearing issue) is "the spray bottle water test".

With the engine running and the sound audible, lightly mist the pulley side of the belt with water.

If the noise disappears or lessens, but then shortly returns, the problem is *probably* a misaligned pulley.

If the noise immediately increases in volume after the belt is misted, the belt is slipping.

If the noise is steady, it *could* be a bearing.

If the belt is loose then be careful not to use anything to lever the alternator up, as you can easily over tension and then the water pump bearings might go and you might develop a leak.

(I know this because I did over tighten once years ago and did develop a leak. But I learned a great life skill: I learned how to remove a Mini side-mount radiator just to replace my water pump - what a joy that was - not!)

Anyway, lift up the alternator just with one hand and snug the adjustment bolt in the slotted bar with the other. All other bolts should be somewhat loose when snugging that one.

Then check tension by grabbing the belt in its longest span between the alternator & crank and twist it around its longitudinal axis (imagine holding a pencil between two fingers and "log rolling" it between them).

If you cannot twist it at least 90 degrees around its length, you went too tight. Loosen the adjuster bolt and try again.

If you can twist it beyond 90 degrees, it's too loose.

(I find this is an easier way to get good tension rather than trying to measuring the deflection to the Haynes Book specs)

Then snug up the other bolts before starting her up.

Having the grill off makes all of this slightly less than impossible to do.

Start her up and re-do the electrical loading test and I hope you'll have no noise.

Good luck!

Edited by [email protected], 04 November 2017 - 04:24 AM.