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Advice Required: Replacing Timing Gasket And Seal


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#1 Mini-Mouse

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Posted 24 November 2017 - 04:37 PM

So after taking near enough the entire passenger side of the engine bay out, I've finally removed the timing cover in the quest to stop an oil leak, but I have a few questions before I order new parts.

 

Can I fit this LUF10006 to a 1989 car instead of this 88G561 for improved leak protection. It wasn't really clear on Minispares whether it would still be compatible with pre '91 cars. 

 

Also, when replacing the timing gasket does it need any kind of sealant applied to the surfaces or do you just need to clean the old gasket off and put it back together with the new one. 

 

Thanks


Edited by Mini-Mouse, 24 November 2017 - 04:37 PM.


#2 slidehammer

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Posted 24 November 2017 - 05:46 PM

If you read the description is does say the later seal (LUF10006) will fit all A series engines. Regarding the timing cover gasket I would use one of the not setting gasket compounds sparingly on the gasket faces.Make sure your timing cover is flat and not distorted on the gasket face before refitting.



#3 Mini-Mouse

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Posted 24 November 2017 - 06:09 PM

If you read the description is does say the later seal (LUF10006) will fit all A series engines. Regarding the timing cover gasket I would use one of the not setting gasket compounds sparingly on the gasket faces.Make sure your timing cover is flat and not distorted on the gasket face before refitting.

 

I assume you wouldn't need the compound if you used GUG705550GM?



#4 HUBBA.HUBBA

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Posted 24 November 2017 - 06:15 PM

I would speak to mini spares directly. Tomorrow morning

#5 Ethel

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Posted 24 November 2017 - 06:49 PM

The blue line will be encapsulated sealant, so nothing extra should be needed. 



#6 slidehammer

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Posted 24 November 2017 - 07:19 PM

 

If you read the description is does say the later seal (LUF10006) will fit all A series engines. Regarding the timing cover gasket I would use one of the not setting gasket compounds sparingly on the gasket faces.Make sure your timing cover is flat and not distorted on the gasket face before refitting.

 

I assume you wouldn't need the compound if you used GUG705550GM?

 

No sealant required on that one, just make sure everything is clean and the gasket surfaces are flat



#7 whistler

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Posted 24 November 2017 - 07:45 PM

Make sure you use the correct length bolts in the T/C holes as too long ones might push against the block and prevent a seal.

#8 Stevie W

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Posted 24 November 2017 - 08:36 PM

Also worth adding to not overtighten the timing cover bolts as this can distort the pressed steel cover flange and cause further oil leaks!

#9 Mini-Mouse

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Posted 24 November 2017 - 08:46 PM

Make sure you use the correct length bolts in the T/C holes as too long ones might push against the block and prevent a seal.

 

I have the bolts laid out in the positions they were in as I know some are different sizes, I can only hope that they were in the right place originally!



#10 Ethel

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Posted 25 November 2017 - 11:23 AM

Simple to check, just pop 'em in without the cover on and see if they'll screw in a bit deeper. It also clears the threads so they torque up cleanly.



#11 tiger99

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Posted 25 November 2017 - 01:01 PM

Some older engines, dating back to the Moggy, had shaped, hardened washers on the bolts which would lie in the groove properly and spread the load to help avoid distorting the cover. I assume they disappeared due to cost cutting, as my later Minis had plain washers under the lock washers. Definitely not as good, and the joint tended to weep slightly at the bottom.

 

You could make them from largish standard washers by grinding away the two sides. Best to start with through hardened washers and keep them cool while grinding, so they remain hard. Or get a piece of tough steel like gauge plate, maybe 1.5mm thick, and cut them from that. Or use somewhat thicker mild steel and slightly longer bolts. Two sizes are needed, and if I recall correctly they are 1/4" and 5/16" clearance bore sizes. Maybe Moggy and A35 specialists still have them.

 

They can be retro-fitted but I think would not be easy to find. There was also a stiffner which spanned at least the bottom 3 bolts, part 12A666.

 

You may well know this already, but if not, please be very sure to centre the seal. All you do is fit the cover with all bolts loose, so it can be wiggled easily, pop in the pulley, with its sealing boss well oiled, optionally turn the engine a couple of times, and then nip up the bolts. That helps the seal to have a long and successful life.



#12 gazza82

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Posted 25 November 2017 - 02:34 PM

I think it depends on the timing chain cover. Those oval washers are only usable on the covers where the mounting face is flat. Later covers have a pressed ridge which will stop the oval ones sitting flush and so you need normal round washers. Check MossEurope's parts site where both types are clearly shown



#13 Mini-Mouse

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Posted 25 November 2017 - 10:32 PM


 

 

 

 

You may well know this already, but if not, please be very sure to centre the seal. All you do is fit the cover with all bolts loose, so it can be wiggled easily, pop in the pulley, with its sealing boss well oiled, optionally turn the engine a couple of times, and then nip up the bolts. That helps the seal to have a long and successful life.

 

Yes I think someone told me on one of my other threads. Do up the timing cover bolts finger tight or a bit less, then put the pulley on and tighten it. Rotate it a few times to make sure the seal is centred then tighten the cover bolts. 






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