30 replies to this topic

[Ian Bloggs]

Hi gents, how do I know if my radius arms are worn?

Every refurb job I've seen suggest a bore out and replacement of the bushes spindles etc. I'm replacing the subframe and other components. Does the radius arm replacemrnt need to be done and if so how do I determine this? My shafts seem pretty solid and not loose.

[Steve220]

With the car jacked up properly (on the subframe), move the radius arm in an out by the wheel, there should be no play in it. 

[nicklouse]

if they are off the car pull the shafts. and look.

 

I would change the shafts as they are the parts that wear first.

[alex-95]

As above if it's on the car, but if it's off remove the shafts and check for wear as water ingress can make them rusty which can lead to the needle roller bearing to seize and then end up wearing out the arm casting, it may be worth exchanging them if they are worn unless you know someone with the correct reamer,

[MiniJosh92]

If you do need to replace them, I do do rebuilt ones - http://www.theminifo...ed-radius-arms/

[sonikk4]

The radius arms on my clubby were fine wear wise, however on strip down one of the protective covers was missing. This had allowed moisture in and created pitting on one end of the shaft. Knackered, so the whole thing is being replaced including the arm.

 

So even though play may not be evident do not take that at face value.

[cian]

As Steve said check for play just behind the subframe bracket where the grease nipple is if there is movement the arm needs refurbished

Refurbished arms are £50 each from cc minis

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[Ian Bloggs]

Thanks for the great advice. Will have a look in the daylight.

[Ian Bloggs]

Does anyone have a link for cc minis please?

[sonikk4]

Just a quick picture of the damage to mine

 

No wear at all but look at the mess. It was fully greased up as well but moisture takes its toll. Another thing that not everyone is aware of but clay based greases are Hydroscopic so a good quality synthetic grease will help. 

 

in Aviation we have changed from Clay based greases to fully synthetic. Mobil Grease 28 (Red) and Aeroshell Grease 33 (Green with an annoying odour) We used to use Aeroshell Grease 7 (Yellow) which is a clay based product and pretty much the same as what we use on our general lubricant points on a mini. 

[cian]

Ian pm me I am the owner of cc minis or check out my fb page with all my work carried out

Edited by cian, 07 December 2017 - 07:45 PM.

[Ian Bloggs]

Thanks for the info gents. Great tip on the grease.

 

pm sent.

[Steve8274]

Interesting to hear about the grease. Seems the synthetic grease is a bit harder to find thus making it more expensive. Doesnt look like the normal motor factors sell it. Also, some sites say it shouldnt come into contact with rubber. Wonder how that would affect the rubber seals around the radius arms for example.

[cal844]

Does anyone have a link for cc minis please?

Just pm Cain (the guy who mentioned CC minis 😁

[sonikk4]

Interesting to hear about the grease. Seems the synthetic grease is a bit harder to find thus making it more expensive. Doesnt look like the normal motor factors sell it. Also, some sites say it shouldnt come into contact with rubber. Wonder how that would affect the rubber seals around the radius arms for example.

 

Mmm considering we have various seals that come into contact with synthetic greases and do not have an issue.

 

I happen to have a Aeroshell bible that confirms what is compatible with what and for us Aeroshell 7 is compatible with grease 33 and Mobil 28. We have Mil-Prf codes as well and believe me we do not go randomly changing seals. What we do to use a different grease is to flush it through and thats it.

 

When i rebuild everything i will be using 33.