8 replies to this topic

[happydude2012]

HI ALL

 

1275

Stage 2 head

Swiftune sw5-07 cam (1500-6500 powerband - most of my driving done below 5500 rpm at an estimate, I stick to the speed limit)

A+ metro block

DAM 5625 gearbox. (A+?)

helical 3:44 fd

 

 

Ok

Looking at lightweight flywheels as the clutch needs replacing and I thought after my straight cut debate, id spend on something useful while the fella was doing the job.

 

 

Would an engine spec as above be suitably worth going for a lightweight flywheel?

Ive heard good and bad, some saying no, just for track cars, others saying depends on cam powerband...

Ill throw myself to your expertise and personal experience on this one

 

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

I note mini spares do complete kits with flywheel and clutch

 

thanks guys

[nicklouse]

depends on the flywheel type. if verto then the Minispares one is good to get with the 190mm clutchplate etc. but it will need balancing.

 

to be honest if there is no need to change your current (if verto) i would not.

[Dusky]

The minispares road lightened flywheel (pre verto) was one of the best things I've ever done. Super responsive without losing too much idle quality.

[racingbob]

I would spend the money on your head to stage 3 or get your dizzy 're curved. I don't have lightened flywheel on mine and it's fine. got stage 4 head and mg metro cam. it's pre verto clutch and bottom end all balanced

[happydude2012]

I would spend the money on your head to stage 3 or get your dizzy 're curved. I don't have lightened flywheel on mine and it's fine. got stage 4 head and mg metro cam. it's pre verto clutch and bottom end all balanced

nice suggestion but quite a difference in costs

[Chris.Williams]

I have the Minispares, pre verto setup on mine, revs like a mofo!
Your engine is very similar spec to mine.
You won't be disappointed.

[Cooperman]

Some reduction of flywheel mass will improve acceleration a bit. Don't go to an ultra-light one for road use as it will make it a bit 'lumpier' at tickover.
I normally get the machine shop to remove some metal from the standard flywheel before balancing is done.

[Tonylamb]

I have a 1380 ready to go in the car and am just working out if its a Verto or a pre Verto Clutch.  I remember driving a friends 998 which he had, I think, stage 2, warm cam and exhaust etc, nothing super fancy.  But I drove it before and after he put a lightened flywheel in it?  The difference was noticeable if not startling?  The clutch was also like an on off switch so a bit tricky round town.  The idle though didn't seem to be any different.  I want to use my car for road use and a straight cut gear box is just too noisy but I think in a 1380 with stage 2 a lightened flywheel will be really noticeable.  On previous cars that blurred the lines between road and track I've always found the cam to be much more important in respect of idle and low down torque for road driving.

 

The next question of course is how easy is it to fit a non Verto lightened clutch set up in an A+ engine?  Is the end of the crank etc all the same?  So is it a relatively straight swap.  I don't have any of the hydraulics, slave cylinder etc yet so I don't really mind which route I go down.  Can you buy a lightened fly wheel for a Verto system?  I know it works differently to the older flywheel, and just swap over the flywheel leaving everything else the same?  the kits from mini spares seem very reasonable in price.

[Cooperman]

A SC CR gearbox would not have the right ratios for a mild cam, so the standard ratios are better. However, if you can get a set the absolutely best gear ratios are the original Cooper 'S'/Cooper ratios which are slightly closer together than the standard ones and ideal for mildly modified engines with good torque figures.

 

It is easy to change from a Verto to a pre-Verto. The end of the crankshaft is identical as it the primary gear. You need the pre-Verto flywheel, slightly lightened, then the clutch plate, a 'Grey' would be a good choice with a good quality centre plate. You also need the 3-lug backplate and the correct bolts. The clutch release bearing is different as is the plunger and clutch arm. You need a pre-Verto slave cylinder, a top spring and spring bracket. The starter ring and starter are different with the Verto and the starter solenoid is not attached to the starter motor, but a separate unit (little bit of re-wiring needed).

 

The pre-Verto unit is generally regarded as better than the Verto and it is easy to lighten. I never pay for a steel lightened flywheel as you only need this for very high revs, like consistently over around 7000 rpm. Just lighten a standard one and fit a new starter ring. Don't over-lighten it and you will be delighted with the results.