6 replies to this topic

[timvandenboo]

Hello Everyone,

 

First thanks for reading my post!

 

I am really happy with my 1992 british open classic SPI but, 7 weeks ago she decided to stop working. Instantly the injector refused to inject (100 km/h). (the fuel pump was still working when I checked just after). So I had to put her on the side of the highway in france ....

 

Here comes the weird stuff.. after 15 min I could turn the car on again but killed itself in less than a minute. 6 hours later she was running but not able to pass the 2300 rpm. 1 hour laters dead again. So after a long night of reading post on the internet I found people talking about the crank sensor. So I checked the sensor and the wiring and it turned out that the previous owner put a custom connector on the crank sensor. So I removed the connector and connected the wires together. RUNNING AGAIN!!!. 

 

But now 3 days ago same thing happend. Instantly stopt injection. So I ordered a new crank sensor but i dont really think this is the problem. Because tonight she was running again. !?!magic?!? 

 

So what has been checked so far:

- Complete front wires checked .

- ECU (double port one)

- Relais

- Manifold switch (bypassed)

- she sparks (set is new)

- fuel pump works

- also there is fuel pressure just before the injector

- 3 days ago she was running when I put manually fuel in.

 

 

And the temp gauge sensor. From the beginning the temp gauge wasnt working. When I connect my pc to the ECU i can read that the ECU is receiving correct temperature values of the temp sensor. Also i changed the gauge/tempsensor. Used a 10 volt chip as a new power supply for the gauge. Nothing helped. 

 

 

I hope someone can give me some advice on 1 of the problems.

 

Thanks in advance!!
 

(sorry for my english.)

[Sprocket]

No magic. Crank sensor can fail in this way. Bad connection might not have helped.

 

First make good crank sensor and connector. Eliminate this as the cause.

 

Temperature gauge is controlled by ECU. Green/ Blue wire from ECU up to 13 way connector next to Inertia switch top right of engine bay as you look under the bonnet from the front of the car. From there, this wire goes direct to the instrument cluster.

 

With age of car, wiring may be a problem.

Edited by Sprocket, 09 March 2018 - 01:19 AM.

[MIGLIACARS]

If you can check as many of the wires for breaks as you can a lot easier said than done I know but Ive found in a few spi s its the wires that have broke.

 

Im No expert!

 

sprocket is the main man here!!

[FlyingScot]

Also check throttle switch as unable to rev can be an indication that the switch is u/s.
As it’s a twin plug early model it should have a switch above the throttle pedal

FS

[Sprocket]

Also check throttle switch as unable to rev can be an indication that the switch is u/s.
As it’s a twin plug early model it should have a switch above the throttle pedal

FS

Great point there   If its been driven with a faulty switch, I would strongly suggest, the catalytic converter is removed and inspected as they do melt and block the exhaust.

[timvandenboo]

Thanks all for your replies.

Tonight, I had time to change my crank sensor. But still the problem isnt gone. When I touch the gas paddle I can reach the 5000 rpm. But if I make a small test run, I cant even drive in gear 2... Not enough fuel is going in. (She is shaking and jumping forward)

So I double checked the fuel filter (had recently been replaced but you never know.) also checked my wiring of the crank sensor. All are ok in my opinion.

So these things are left i gues: ECU, relay and "injector". (But these has already been changed by the garage in france with the first problems I had.)

Can it maybe be the magnetic mechanism in the "injector"?
Or do I have to "restart" the ECU.

The paddle switch is also a good suggestion. (Will check it tomorrow afternoon)

[timvandenboo]

I found the problem why the acceleration was failing. I melted my vacuum tube.... (I changed them for non original home made so they were able to melt..)

Now this is fixed.. (And probably didn't have to change the crank sensor) the gauge.

Again i checked the wiring from the ecu to the gauge. All looks fine and i receive on tank and temp a pulse. Jumping from 0-10v. Also already changed gauge and temp sensor. MEMs software does read temp from sensor but doesn't send it to seiki gaige. (Fuel gauge is working)

Anyone a suggestion or is my ECU dead? Or is there a bypass?

Thanks!