12 replies to this topic

[FozzyBear]

Hi all im currently having trouble getting my Mini to start. I've replaced the loom, cleaned up the fuse box and all the electrics are working great. ...except the starter which is not even cranking. 

 

I'm getting 12v at the back of the solenoid, power to the ignition barrel. all dash lights work and so too is the ignition light. but the starter is doing nothing. 

 

Does anyone have any ideas as to what i can try next? any and all replies welcome! cheers 

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

Is the engine earth lead in place?

[FozzyBear]

When installing the new loom I reconnected the engine ground (and cleaned back the material, used new nuts & bolts) but I also used the same ground point for 3 other separate earths from the loom. Would sharing the same ground point for separate earths be an issue? Cheers

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

That'll be fine. 

 

You should have a permanent 12v supply on the solenoid at the heavy duty cable connection from the battery.  The small trigger wire on the solenoid (from the ignition switch, coloured white and red I think) should be at 12v when the starter motor is activated via the ignition switch.  If so try bridging the two heavy duty terminals on the solenoid.  If no life then I think you need to think about changing the starter motor.

[FozzyBear]

Ill give the bridging technique a go,(and check the trigger wire) am I right in saying it'll turn the engine over then disengage the flywheel if its still okay? If it is fine, what else could I check? Before posting I checked the ignition relay in the engine bay, using a multimetre I got 75ish Ohms across the control circuit which I think is correct. Could the battery be so low that it can operate ancillaries but not the starter? Cheers

 

The ignition system I've got is ballast. Would having the wiring to the coil incorrect prevent cranking? I would of thought that engine would still be able to turn over but there'd be no ignition. Cheers

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

I'm assuming you have the pre-engaged starter motor with the solenoid on the motor?  I have the inertia type so I'm working blind here.  I have the correct wiring diagram in front of me now and it's more different than I expected from earlier models so let's start again.  I'll be back after I've eaten...

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

You have installed a new loom.  If the starter was working before then it is most likely incorrectly wired assuming the battery is okay.  How long since the engine was last run?  You should have about 12.6 volts at the battery if it's alright. 

 

When you say ignition relay did you mean starter relay?

 

The white/red wire went from the ignition switch to the solenoid on earlier cars and operated the solenoid when the ignition switch was turned which activated the starter.  On the model year you have this wire now goes from the ignition switch to the starter relay and activates the relay instead.  Do you have 12v at this wire on the relay when the ignition switch is held in the starter position?  Does the relay click? 

 

The brown wire on the relay should be permanently live, is it?

 

Is the black wire on the relay earthed?

 

The brown/red wire from the relay to the solenoid should go live when the relay is activated, does it?  If it doesn't go live but the other wires are doing what they should then you may have the relay wired incorrectly.

[FozzyBear]

Okay so, the starter (pre engaged) was working fine before the install. The battery is holding a steady 12.6 volts. The engine was last run only a week or so ago so it hasn't been sat for long.

 

sorry yes i meant the starter relay not ignition ha 

 

The red/white wire from the ignition switch does not have 12 volts at the relay or the ignition switch.

 

The brown wire on the relay is permanently live @ 12 volts

 

Yeah the black wire from the relay is earthed sharing the same spot as the engine earth.

 

The brown/red wire does not go live with ignition

 

Im guessing the red/white is the starting point for this no? Or the ignition switch itself? cheers

Edited by FozzyBear, 12 March 2018 - 08:03 PM.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

Yes you're onto something there.  Try running a jumper wire from a known live to the terminal on the starter relay that the white/red wire from the ignition switch fits onto - it should activate the starter motor - at least you'll know that works then.

[FozzyBear]

I think i found the problem, the white/red wire from the ignition switch lacks continuity to the starter relay. I've traced power to the connection between the main wiring loom and the steering wheel from then on nothing. This is a brand new loom so there shouldn't be any breaks between these points (loom connector to steering wheel > starter relay), is there any other intersecting points?  

Edited by FozzyBear, 12 March 2018 - 09:13 PM.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

I don't know the answer to that one and I don't know where the starter relay is on your model - just working from a wiring diagram.

[FozzyBear]

Problem solved! It was the white/red wire from the ignition switch that was faulty, i ran a jumper like you said between the ignition switch straight to the starter relay. life! The car started and fired up too which was unexpected as i wasn't expecting my coil wiring to be correct at all. Its a brand new loom but i don't want to send it back and get another so i'm just going to set up a new white/red wire to the starter relay. I really appreciate your help with this mate. Many thanks unburntfuelinthemorning! Hero!

 

 

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

You're welcome.  That's annoying when new parts aren't right but after all the work putting the loom in I'd be reluctant to change it again (you may get a replacement loom but you can't get the time back!) so would just add a new wire like you are.