9 replies to this topic

[brownspeed]

Can anyone post up either a decent drawing or a link to one for the front stubshaft assembly (please)?

Before I strip mine down I could do with seeing exactly how they go together.

I did a bearing and stubshaft replacement last year;- which already has play in it. I suspect I have incorrectly assembled it (the nearside is still fine- so I have the ability to do it right it seems!)

thanks in advance folks!

[Mike L]

Have you tried the catalogues on Mini Spares site?

http://minispares.co...es/default.aspx

[nicklouse]

or your Haynes manual.

[Spider]

It's not uncommon for the front hub and some other parts to wear. You can have a read here for these;-

 

http://www.theminifo...wheel-bearings/

 

and here's a cut-away drawing;-

 

[AlexMozza]

The Somerford mini diagrams are very good for this.

[brownspeed]

Graciasamigos.

IIRC when I did the job, the diagrams in my Haynes manual weren't as good as what has been posted.

[DeadSquare]

Graciasamigos.

IIRC when I did the job, the diagrams in my Haynes manual weren't as good as what has been posted.

 

 

Haynes deserve credit for their effort, but you can't beat "The Workshop Manual".

 

To save getting the Manual covered with oily finger marks, photocopy the relevant pages; ( this is easier with the workshop manual as it is/was published as a ring-binder )

 

If you have a proper Mini with sliding windows, open the window and slip the page between the two sheets of glass.

 

It's not uncommon for the front hub and some other parts to wear. You can have a read here for these;-

 

http://www.theminifo...wheel-bearings/

 

and here's a cut-away drawing;-

 

 

 

Taper Roller Bearings used to be adjustable!

 

Before the war, the inner bearing was a larger, load bearing bearing, and the outer was a smaller positional bearing, and the stub axle nut was progressively tightened until there was no play, and then backed off to the nearest split-pin hole.  This could be done because there was no "Bearing Distance Ring", number 5 on the diagram.

 

Why is it there?, if in theory, and practice, the distance ring can be removed and the bearing adjusted, as in days of old.

 

The only good reason that I have ever been given, is that, should the split-pin fail/fall out, the stub axle/drive shaft nut, ... might ... tighten its self and consequently over pre-load the bearing tolerances.

 

I  DO  NOT  RECOMMEND  REMOVING  THE  DISTANCE  RING.   but I raced a Mini without them, and adjusted the bearings as and when needed.

 

Should you find yourself with play in a bearing and unable to acquire a replacement, withdraw the outer bearing  ( I'm not explaining how)  ,   cut a large enough piece from an alluminium beer can and draw round the bearing on it, then cut out a shim with scissors and replace the bearing with the shim behind it.

 

The drive shaft nut can then be adjusted as in days of old.

 

If desperate, in somewhere like the Australian outback, with no empty beer can available, the distance ring could be shaved down by rubbing it on an Australian Cricketer's bit of sandpaper.

[brownspeed]

I don't see the "bearing distance ring" listed on the parts list.

I used timkens when I did the build, i'm thinking maybe undersized distance ring; so will buy a new one if I can find it. any clues?

[nicklouse]

I don't see the "bearing distance ring" listed on the parts list.

I used timkens when I did the build, i'm thinking maybe undersized distance ring; so will buy a new one if I can find it. any clues?

they come with the bearings as part of a matched set.

 

some come with it as part of the inner (smaller) race. part on each race so they touch so doing the same job as a single separate item.

[brownspeed]

Thanks Nick.

I normally have a few spare parts left over* but don't recall leaving these out.

 

* its a joke people!