17 replies to this topic

[sam138]

As per pictures Ive taken out the starter motor and seen a small deposit amount of oil by the starter motor . The clutch itself is brand new and cant see or feel any oil over the surface or thrown around in the casing area. Ive taken a picture inside around the crank shaft and cant see any leaks from crank oil seal. The started motor was swapped over from an old engine but not sure how oil would get here ? Clutch does not feel like its slipping at all. I have changed the rocker cover gasket today as this had been leaking by the looks for some time.


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Edited by sam138, 30 March 2018 - 08:16 PM.

[cal844]

When the clutch was changed did you change the primary gear oil seal?

[sam138]

I’d had the engine rebuilt around a year ago and then got around to putting into car with a new clutch kit I purchased from MED engineering. I believe oil seal was changed and upon fitting the clutch all looked in order with the addtion of new plastic oil seal splash guard.

[cal844]

Id had the engine rebuilt around a year ago and then got around to putting into car with a new clutch kit I purchased from MED engineering. I believe oil seal was changed and upon fitting the clutch all looked in order with the addtion of new plastic oil seal splash guard.

I've had primary gear oil seals last 6 weeks before needing changed due to oil leaks(no clutch slip or issues)

[sam138]

Ok thanks for the advise, did you have to change any part of clutch assembly due to oil ingress then ?

[Retroman]

It takes quite a lot of oil around to make the clutch slip, and thats not the issue

 

As cal says its more likely to be the clutch seal, the orange type are poor compared to the black type

 

I never use orange ones.

 

The black ones are 0.030" smaller ID with better detailing on the seal lip

 

 

 

http://www.retromini...products_id=273

 

I would clean everything up as much as possible and check it again at a later date.

[minimans]

That's not a leak it's a "weep" If your not seeing oil coming out of the weep hole in the bottom of the clutch housing, enough to leave a puddle I'd leave it alone..............

[Boycie]

Yes... I wouldn't be pulling the flywheel and all the rest of it just because of that weep.

Others may disagree but if it doesn't get worse that would be filed under 'fix when I next have to take the clutch out' if it were my car!

[RooBoonix]

It takes quite a lot of oil around to make the clutch slip, and thats not the issue
 
As cal says its more likely to be the clutch seal, the orange type are poor compared to the black type
 
I never use orange ones.
 
The black ones are 0.030" smaller ID with better detailing on the seal lip
 
 

 
http://www.retromini...products_id=273
 
I would clean everything up as much as possible and check it again at a later date.

So you're comparing a pre 1992 and a post 1992 oil seal there, what about the Minispares performance use oil seal? Similar to the post 1992 or even better?

[cal844]

Ok thanks for the advise, did you have to change any part of clutch assembly due to oil ingress then ?

Luckily for us the oil was flung all over the casing than into the clutch plate, I did strip the clutch assembly and cleaned with clutch cleaner and a clean rag

[sam138]

Great thanks, Ive cleaned off excess oil and will check again including the weep hole below clutch. Ill get a bore scope camera in there next week to check seal for leaks.

If I have to remove clutch assembly will I be able to see oil ingress in clutch ? Will I need a complete clutch if oil has got in ?

[cal844]

If you do strip it you'd be best to replace the seal, then you have three options.

If you don't know the history of the engine id strongly advise changing the full clutch kit.

Second option is if the clutch has low mileage but the friction plate is contaminated you can just change the friction plate and thrust bearing.

Third option is just to clean the casing and clutch kit if it's just a weep

Edited by cal844, 31 March 2018 - 07:28 PM.

[MatthewsDad]

If you do strip it you'd be best to replace the seal, then you have three options.

If you don't know the history of the engine id strongly advise changing the full clutch kit.

Second option is if the clutch has low mileage but the friction plate is contaminated you can just change the friction plate and thrust bearing.

Third option is just to clean the casing and clutch kit if it's just a weep

Agree. I've just replaced a friction plate with 12,000 miles on it. Also replaced all the clutch hydraulics and bearing. The seal was weeping small amounts of oil and the clutch was juddering slightly but I left it for a couple of years as it wasn't affecting performance too much and there was more important stuff on my list of things to do.

[sam138]

Thanks for the help, the clutch kit is a Med stage 1 verto which I fitted less than 300 miles ago and the engine is at running in stage. For best practice should I replace below link? Is a friction plate same as clutch plate ? Or does the cover plate need changing as well ? I dont want to have this all out again if I can help it. So will change for performace black seal and thrust bearing, give the flywheel etc a good clean.

http://www.med-engin...id-clutch-plate

Edited by sam138, 01 April 2018 - 03:09 PM.

[sam138]

One last question if I buy the primary gear tool for seal can I carefully pick out the old one and use tool to push new one in without primary gear coming out ?