14 replies to this topic

[Bell-nose]

Hi,

I need to get my gearbox off the engine. Can I remove it without removing the transfer case? The clutch and flywheel wont budge and I cant get them off resulting in a damaged crank and transfer case. I need to get the gearbox off the engine but obviously with the transfer case nuts behind the clutch I cant get to them.

Thanks.

[Carlos W]

No.

I’m pretty sure it can’t be done

[RooBoonix]

You'll find they're bolts behind the clutch which fasten the transfer case directly to the block and gearbox casing, so without removing them the gearbox can't come away from the engine or transfer case. If you're having issues Guessworks supplies a flywheel puller which is almost guaranteed to work, available to buy outright or "borrow" for a small fee. It's got a few people on here out of trouble.

 

They can be a pain but patience is key, heating and cooling, leaving the puller on with constant pressure whilst you go have a cuppa, a few wacks with a hammer every now and then, it'll come off eventually.

 

Good luck!

Edited by RooBoonix, 02 April 2018 - 03:39 PM.

[AlexMozza]

Try a little heat, or a better puller. Sometimes they can be a pain, but I've never had one not come off yet.

[Retroman]

Hi,

I need to get my gearbox off the engine. Can I remove it without removing the transfer case? The clutch and flywheel wont budge and I cant get them off resulting in a damaged crank and transfer case. I need to get the gearbox off the engine but obviously with the transfer case nuts behind the clutch I cant get to them.

Thanks.

Its impossible to remove the gearbox without first taking the flywheel off then the transfer case...without using a stihl saw and completely distroying the casing and crankshaft.

 

Where are you upto ?

Have you removed the flywheel bolt...?

How do you know the crank is damaged ?

[GraemeC]

All answers on his other thread:
http://www.theminifo...nkshaft-thread/

Given this is all the same problem, a new thread makes it harder to help (as all the above questions prove).

Could a mod merge them together please?

[Retroman]

Ok Having read the damaged crank thread thread

 

You need to helicoil the flywheel thread it could be 3/8th UNF or M10

 

Make sure you are using the correct thread for the 3 pulling bolts and they are all in an equal length and in as far as possible

 

Also make sure you use the solid metal spacer between the end of the crank and the puller.

 

Use a good heavy puller, preferably a hydraulic one.

 

You can shock them off with the help of a hammer...tighten again shock... sometimes a few times before they pop off.

 

If its really tight stand to the side because when it comes off it will fly

 

You should then be able to salvage the crank threads with the correct tap

[Bell-nose]

Thanks everyone I have re- helicoilled and tightened up and left overnight again facing the wall. Well see what it looks like me tomorrow.

[Rorf]

Is the engine still in the car???

 

Far easier to do this work with it removed.

[Bell-nose]

Is the engine still in the car???

 

Far easier to do this work with it removed.

Yes its out of the car I've left the flywheel facing the wall for the night just in case it comes off overnight.

[nicklouse]

it can take a long time to get it off. apply force and leave. apply some more and leave. etc etc.might take days.

[Bell-nose]

I have pulled again in the clutch and again the helicoils have now stripped!

Has anyone used an angle grinder to get their clutch and flywheel off?

Im happy ordering a new flywheel and transfer case (which has now also been damaged at the starter motor end) I would really like to avoid angle grinding off the crank but I do want to save the rest of the engine and gearbox - which I need to get in for a rebuild.

Can anyone provide an overview on angle grinding off the flywheel and clutch?

Thanks in advance,

D

Edited by Bell-nose, 03 April 2018 - 04:15 PM.

[Cooperman]

I once had an MPI flywheel which took 2 weeks to remove with my very strong puller.
In the end I had to use a blow torch and plumbers Arctic Freeze to get it to shift together with my big lump hammer.

[Miniman Sam]

Hi, I had one very difficult flywheel once and had to get in very hot around the taper, to the point the flywheel was glowing red, the down side to this you will need a replacement flywheel and clutch, also make sure the 3 pulling bolts are good quality high tensile as some of the bolts supplied in the pulling kits are poor quality and you could just be stretching the bolts wheel tightening the puller up.

[Spider]

If you wanted to give the puller a go again, I'd suggest going to 1/2" UNF Bolts.

 

If you do want to go down the grinder route (not something I've ever needed to do) I'd suggest not trying to cut all the way through with the grinder and then cracking that last bit with a chisel, not to actually cut it with the chisel, but using it as a wedge in the slot left by the grinder.