9 replies to this topic

[Pepys]

I have removed the rust and welded in fresh metal in the corners of the boot and the boot lip. I have removed the rear subframe mount, valance etc. Now when I try and test fit the subframe, the rear subframe holes will not line-up on the passenger side, while the drivers side is fine. The frame is all bolted square to the heelboard, and I haven't tampered with this so it should all be good as a datum. I've checked the subframe and it's all square. 

 

Also on the passenger side, the rear trunnion is closer to the wheel arch than on the drivers side. 

 

When I offer-up just the passenger subframe mount to the boot, both the mounting holes line-up perfectly with those on the boot. The problem is that the subframe itself doesn't match.

 

I think what has happened is that the rear of the passenger wheel arch has moved inboard by about 3-4mm when I rolled the car on to its head, and so skewed the two passenger side mounting holes. Probably had one of the tyres too far back. 

 

I haven't removed the wheel arch brackets in the boot, to use a a datum for the holes in the boot floor. 

 

But if anyone has any ideas!?

 

The big question is does this really matter if the rear subframe is square to the heelboard? Can I just re-drill the holes and carry on? Or should I get to the root problem? Big cheers.

 

Them holes don't lie up:

 

 IMG_20180528_105228005.jpg   30.84K   13 downloads

 

 IMG_20180528_105235323.jpg   28.92K   6 downloads

 

 IMG_20180528_104948766.jpg   24.21K   9 downloads

 

Passenger rear trunnion:

 

 IMG_20180528_121846492.jpg   34.71K   16 downloads

 

Drivers  rear trunnion:

 

 IMG_20180528_121817033_HDR.jpg   44.08K   12 downloads

 

 

[minimans]

It doesn't look that far off? It's not ideal to move the holes obviously but I would for that small amount otherwise you'll have to start cutting and welding the the floor again to get it to line up. Have you tried pushing the trunion over on it's own? as it's rubber mounted you may just get enough movement to get the bolts started?

[ukcooper]

I put all the bolts in the heel board mess about get em fit , then see what lines up at the rear , then drill it if it don't fit ... one hole at a time and bolt up - then get the tracking set with a 4 wheel tracking system like quick fit use or a more mini friendly garage ....

[Steve220]

Your subframe bushes are all worn. Replace with new, bolt to heel board then re-check how far off you are again.

[Homersimpson]

I reckon you could get that to fit with a bit of fiddling, I've seen worse on cars that haven't been welded when replacing rear subframes.  If you absolutly can't do it then as said above I would drill it out.

[Pepys]

Big thanks for the replies. All advice noted.

 

I'll try some new bushes, and think about re-drilling the holes (possibly only one).  There is some give already but not enough to shove the trunnion over. I like the idea of the 4 wheel tracking system... once before the kids came along, about 20 years ago I hurtled down the Kings Road in this very car and had to slam the brakes on at the final set of lights. I ended up sideways across the road. But then it had just rained. 

[ings]

This looks perfect! change your bushes, install a few screws but dont tighten them completly and move the frame for the next screw...

Thighten everithing up as soon every screw is in its thread. And please use a looooot of greas for the threads...

 

.

[Boycie]

Yes, that's nothing to worry about, the heelboard being in the right place and the subframe being square are the most important things.  I'd either file the holes until the bolt goes through or maybe enlarge them a touch with a reamer.  Either way, I've seen a LOT worse misalignment on apparently very good cars...

 

Regarding the subframe bushes, I'm going to buck the trend and say the originals are your best bet as long as they aren't falling apart.  A bit of cracking is ok IMO.

The reason I say this is because modern 'rubber' is absolutely shocking and seems to dissolve in months.  Unless you can find a set of old stock Unipart stuff, I'd have no problem keeping the original rubbers and is what I do when changing the rear subframe.  If you're anything like me, you won't want to drag the whole lot out again when the new bushes break into little pieces after 12 months!

[Pepys]

Again, cheers for all the responses. Interesting about the bushes, thanks for that Boycie. 

 

A professional bodywork friend of mine took a look and he wasn't too concerned. He suggested that I could gently use a porta power to push the rear holes back, while hammering and dolling the passenger side boot floor to move the metal.  Doesn't sound so invasive, so I might give it a go, only problem... I don't have a porta power so if anyone near Feltham West London can lend me one I may give it a try.

 

Started to make my own with a scissor jack, but realised I didn't have eight arms to hold it in place and also I was laughing a lot because it was a very very silly way to do it. I may need a porta power to push out the front a little so I may invest £85 on ebay. All part of the fun. Cheers again chaps! 

[mini_matt_106]

Bottle jack and a bit of 2x4?