32 replies to this topic

[Bobkennedy]

It sounds like there's a crack (or two) on the Printed Circuit on the back of the Clocks.

The Warning Lamps are not grounded but fed with +12V.

If there is a crack as suggested, they can be very very hard to see.

Is there a way to test or check these? Or someone that can?

I have another set of clocks and they’re behaving similarly. I’ll throw them back in to double check over the next few days.

[Bobkennedy]

Either damage to the PCB or the pinouts are mismatched. Quick check would be to trace out the white/brown wire and see if it’s going to the oil pressure tell tale.

If that looks OK then trace the white wire as it will connect to both the oil and charge tell tales.

The new clocks (3 set) came with plug and tails and were wired the same as the unit that was removed which was original.

[Spider]

 

It sounds like there's a crack (or two) on the Printed Circuit on the back of the Clocks.

The Warning Lamps are not grounded but fed with +12V.

If there is a crack as suggested, they can be very very hard to see.

Is there a way to test or check these? Or someone that can?

I have another set of clocks and they’re behaving similarly. I’ll throw them back in to double check over the next few days.

 

 

You can do a continuity check on the tracks, however, that can be hit & miss as the cracks are usually so fine.

 

I tend to check them in good daylight with a magnifying glass.

[Homersimpson]

Can you earth out the oil pressure switch with the ignition on (engine not running). Does it light up then?

They may be two entirely different problems and you have either not noticed the oil pressure light not working before or it's failure is coincidence.

[JonC]

Check and clean the fuses behind the carb, not the ones in the box but that bundle of fuses. Take fuse out one at a time, clean and check also push out the end if the wires and clean them well. Mine disappeared like yours and this fixed it. I've still not got working fuel or temp gauges though.

[Bobkennedy]

Check and clean the fuses behind the carb, not the ones in the box but that bundle of fuses. Take fuse out one at a time, clean and check also push out the end if the wires and clean them well. Mine disappeared like yours and this fixed it. I've still not got working fuel or temp gauges though.

Those were all replaced previously with 10A spade fuses. All are in good condition and cleaned.

[Bobkennedy]

Can you earth out the oil pressure switch with the ignition on (engine not running). Does it light up then?

They may be two entirely different problems and you have either not noticed the oil pressure light not working before or it's failure is coincidence.

By this do you mean unplug the wire going to the switch and earth it?

I’ll give that a shot in the next few days.

[Homersimpson]

 

Can you earth out the oil pressure switch with the ignition on (engine not running). Does it light up then?

They may be two entirely different problems and you have either not noticed the oil pressure light not working before or it's failure is coincidence.

By this do you mean unplug the wire going to the switch and earth it?

I’ll give that a shot in the next few days.

 

Yes thats correct, if when you earth it out with the ignition on the light illuminates then its the switch thats at fault, if not then look elsewhere.

[Bobkennedy]

Can you earth out the oil pressure switch with the ignition on (engine not running). Does it light up then?

They may be two entirely different problems and you have either not noticed the oil pressure light not working before or it's failure is coincidence.

By this do you mean unplug the wire going to the switch and earth it?

I’ll give that a shot in the next few days.

Yes thats correct, if when you earth it out with the ignition on the light illuminates then its the switch thats at fault, if not then look elsewhere.

The light does not illuminate when earthed out. Time to read back over the thread and check through everything again!

[Bat]

Hi,

Start at the start!

Drop the clocks out but leave them plugged in.

Check you have power on the white wire with the ignition switched on.

If you do then ground the oil pressure wire on the back of the clocks and see if the light comes on.

If it doesn't poke and prod the printed circuit to see if you can get the lihgt to flicker.

That should point you to the crack in the track.

Cheers 

[Bobkennedy]

Ok. Thanks for that

Clocks out checked for power on the white track while still having the main plug in.

Not a peep

Unplugged clocks and checked. Battery voltage.

Same on both sets of clocks

[Bat]

Hi,
You've got a poor connection that's breaking down when under load.
Try cleaning all the connections on the white wires where they plug into the fuse box and the fuse box connections.
Cheers

[Bat]

I'm assuming you've got a 2 or 4 way fusebox under the bonnet...

[Bobkennedy]

4 way fuse box under the bonnet. 

 

Has been replaced with a blade fuse box, all new connectors, new fuses, So ill go through and check all the connections on that one. to make totally sure.  I had to replace the connector on the ignition switch into the main loom, so will check the connections there are good too. 

 

Is the one white wire through the loom the same circuit?

[Bobkennedy]

So. Checking the connections at the fuse box and the white cable came off. Re made the connection good and tight but now....

Have no power on the white at the back of the clocks when the clocks are fitted or not.

The white goes out the left hand side of the fuse box with a green on the opposite side and a good 15a in between.

However. That fuse is the one for stop reverse and indicators which all work with no issues.