Low Oil Pressure Engine Rebuild
#1
Posted 10 September 2018 - 09:55 AM
I'm going to check everything but do u think my problem is likely to be an out of tolerance oil pump(new when fitted)or bearings
What should I be looking for when checking the main and big end bearings?
Thanks
#2
Posted 10 September 2018 - 10:06 AM
#3
Posted 10 September 2018 - 10:08 AM
#4
Posted 10 September 2018 - 10:24 AM
Gold mist after 2k miles and several oil changes isnt really a good sign..
#5
Posted 10 September 2018 - 11:02 AM
Sorry should have said, it's the ball bearing type relief valve and I've checked that, thank you though
That won't help.
#6
Posted 10 September 2018 - 11:08 AM
Sorry should have said, it's the ball bearing type relief valve and I've checked that, thank you though
That won't help.
This maybe the issue, for a variety of reasons. For how easy it is, I'd suggest swapping over to a standard relief valve shuttle and seeing how that goes.
If when fitted up with the ball, the spring wasn't shortened, there's a very good chance the oil has been cooked to death.
Some more info on the Ball Relief Valve Conversion and some of it's pitfalls here;-
http://www.theminifo...huttle-vs-ball/
#7
Posted 10 September 2018 - 05:18 PM
#8
Posted 10 September 2018 - 08:14 PM
+1 for above comments about using ball & spring. I used this many moons ago, gave super-high pressure when cold and ended blowing out the main gallery oil plug on a particularly cold morning. Have used the standard plunger and spring ever since.
Gold mist in oil is not good. Before taking engine apart check the crank end float, and once apart carefully inspect the thrust washers and crank thrust faces.
#9
Posted 10 September 2018 - 09:04 PM
May sound silly, but standard main bearings weren't fitted to maybe 10 thou undersize journals. Just a thought.
#10
Posted 11 September 2018 - 01:13 AM
My engine does exactly the same thing, it was worse before I put a new shuttle in and cleaned everything up but in the end the results were almost the same - when cold it holds a nice steady 70psi, when hot after running on the highway a while it's down to about 40 psi at 3K rpm, and at idle somewhere around 20.
The interesting thing is if I let it cool for 10 min I'm right back at 70 psi....for a while.
I wish I had an oil cooler, just to test if keeping the oil cool would make a significant difference.
In the end I think I just have worn bearings......no idea whether this engine has ever been open or not.
#11
Posted 11 September 2018 - 06:22 AM
Its a lot more fun when that happens. 0 oil pressure and vibrations that crack conrods etc. Dont ask me how I know ?May sound silly, but standard main bearings weren't fitted to maybe 10 thou undersize journals. Just a thought.
#12
Posted 11 September 2018 - 06:37 AM
My engine does exactly the same thing, it was worse before I put a new shuttle in and cleaned everything up but in the end the results were almost the same - when cold it holds a nice steady 70psi, when hot after running on the highway a while it's down to about 40 psi at 3K rpm, and at idle somewhere around 20.
The interesting thing is if I let it cool for 10 min I'm right back at 70 psi....for a while.
I wish I had an oil cooler, just to test if keeping the oil cool would make a significant difference.
In the end I think I just have worn bearings......no idea whether this engine has ever been open or not.
Hi,
If you've got 20 psi on hot idle I'd say there's nothing much to worry about at the moment.
Just use a good quality 20w50 and change regularly.
Cheers ![]()
#13
Posted 11 September 2018 - 12:32 PM
I was getting 15-20psi hot idle before the rebuild (90k miles).
#14
Posted 11 September 2018 - 06:16 PM
#15
Posted 12 September 2018 - 07:13 AM
I have a fresh 1380 here that gets 20psi hot. Its fine
Ac
Edited by ACDodd, 12 September 2018 - 07:13 AM.
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