11 replies to this topic

[MASON1979]

Anyone running powerlite GXE1004 starter motor high torque one? Reviews? Please note after reviews not people saying the standard one will do fine Thankyou

[Earwax]

I have had two of the pre engaged units - so same torque and basic fit as GXE4000. First had a problem with the switch mechanism that pulled the starter across -but was replaced under warranty and i think a partial recall (so good service and it seems the replacement one has been rectified). The second has performed well and has plenty of grunt to turn over the motor in building oil pressure and then getting the motor to start - testing down to negative celsius at one race meet ( was -6degrees at 7am and probably -3 when motors started) .  I also haven't used an old solenoid as a power switch - to avoid large loads -  naughty, but after all i was trying to save weight- and my 1.1 kg lithium battery handles it all ( cold mornings inclusive) all in its stride - one day I  will add a relay.

 

Be sure to accurately measure the engagement movement/gap so that the ring gear is engaged well.  ( flywheel movement down the crank taper can change distance) - may need slight spacer.

 

My only bugbear, is that as it comes set up , i have to hand feed the bottom retaining bolt in at the same time as the top bolt ( ie due to the solenoid bump sticking out in front of the bottom bolt the space is too short to nip the top bolt up nearly completely and then do the bottom bolt)  so the pain is

 

1) i have to hold the weight of the starter for a longer period of time

2) tighten flat by flat almost doing up of the bottom bolt.

 

To be fair there are work arounds, and this is more a hassle for a race engine in and out quite a bit rather than just a set and forget road car.

 

Workaround 1.

the unit is so small, i now attach the starter whilst motor is on the stand and feed the whole assembled unit into the bay,  this just means hooking up the power leads is a bit finicky in situ ( I used to do up the power wires with starter in hand  and then mount onto the engine when in the engine bay. (Note i try and avoid at all cost having to be upsidedown or a contortionist to do up nuts and bolts...)

 

Workaround 2

There is also an ability to rotate the orientation of the starter unit by realigning  those outer ring of holes. I haven't tried this to get the solenoid bump out of the way, because the meshing orientation of starter  is not as optimal as it comes straight out of the box

 

Workaround 3

Shut up and stop whining because i have short fat fingers.

 

Overall

loads of grunt, less weight than many other starters, smaller footprint but still need to watch fitment of oil pressure lines  distributor clips etc, pricey but well made and to date totally reliable in my setting, - AND far easier than me losing 2 kgs of my own weight instead.

[Rorf]

Loosing 0.5% weight that is incredible. Over what compression ratio would one need a high torque starter motor unless of course one has converted the mini engine to a diesel

[Baldspeed Racing]

ive got one, bit fiddly to fit but a good starter and fires up my 1380 with ease

[dotmatrix]

does any one know what the many lightweight and high torque starters available on minispares.com weight?

[Midas Mk1]

For me it helps loads with space too especially with the front mounted oilcooler, and spins my high comp 1380 over faster. 

[Cooperman]

Standard starter motor has always worked on all my Minis over the past 57 years and can see no reason to spend money on unnecessary parts. An oil cooler easily fits in front of the starter motor.

[Bat]

Hi,

Any weight savings aside I think the only advantage is the lower power demand from the battery.

Otherwise the standard items take whatever you can throw at them.

Cheers 

[Baldspeed Racing]

Standard starter motor has always worked on all my Minis over the past 57 years and can see no reason to spend money on unnecessary parts. An oil cooler easily fits in front of the starter motor.

 

I've over the years had to run two big batteries in mine due to running caster blend oil so on a 24v starter set up. Defo over the winter when the oil settles like treacle So running a high torque starter allows me to run the single battery and saves weight there, but yeh the only down side was the fiddly fit.

[andyapanel]

I had one.

The first failed after a few hundred miles. In the process, it knocked the ring gear off the flywheel, creating an expensive job to replace the ring gear.

It was replaced.

I did not weigh it, but it did not seem very light compared to the standard one.

Taking it on and off was awkward and seating the battery power cable was a pain.

Overall, yes it has more power, but I would not buy another; the standard starter is good enough and far cheaper and friendlier.

[limby2000]

Ive even got one on my tuned 1098 auto, a bit of overkill really, but it come up cheap on one of my other groups.spins over well, although touches the oil pressure relief valve,when bolted up.

[Cooperman]

Well, I have a CR of 11.1:1 on my Cooper 'S' and with the standard inertia starter motor I have never had any problems, even when the engine is very hot.

If the high CR and a hot engine is making it hard to turn over, there is too much static advance and more total available advance is needed so that for starting the advance is still around 6 degrees. My distributor was customised by Aldon to enable easy starting with correct maximum advance.