8 replies to this topic

[Bobbins]

If I try to accelerate too hard my 1998 JDM Cooper suffers badly from clutch slip ...

 

I had been thinking this was a worn friction plate or maybe even oil contamination, but I'm not completely convinced. The slipping is smooth, no juddering, and it's also quite variable, sometimes it drives really well, other times it needs very gentle acceleration to stop the slip. Also the slightest foot pressure on the clutch pedal causes the revs to rise, it's as if there's no slack in the take-up which has made me think it might not just be wear.

 

The car's done 55,000 miles which isn't massive for a clutch but the gearbox could really do with a refresh at which point I'd fit a new clutch anyway, but it would really help with other jobs I need to do if i could hold off doing the gearbox and clutch for now.

 

Any thoughts?

[nicklouse]

does sound like a worn friction plate. just make sure that the plunger and arm are returning fully and freely.

[Icey]

If you leave a slipping clutch too long you'll knacker the flywheel (assuming it's slipping because of wear) although I changed the whole lot when ours went as it wasn't a huge amount more money. Also a good time to do the primary oil seal.

Edited by Icey, 07 November 2018 - 03:58 PM.

[Wiggy]

Provided there's no sign of the primary gear oil seal leaking; whacking a clutch on could be done comfortably in a weekend if it's your first time.

Don't get me wrong; it's not the nicest job to do, but it would buy you some time before you're ready to pull the whole lump.

[Bobbins]

I've done clutches before but never a Verto but it can't be that different, I'd probably choose to fit a lighter flywheel at the same time.

 

The catch is ....... it's a JDM model with air-con, there's a lot to remove before I get anywhere near the bellhousing!

[Swift_General]

As long as you're happy the release bearing is able to return, then whatever it is, be it worn plate, weak spring or oil leak the 'wok' will need to come of to investigate.

[Wiggy]

With any luck you won't have to disturb the AC. Although I'm not that familiar with the Japanese cars.

The brake master cylinder can be withdrawn from the servo and cable tied to the bonnet stay hole. Saves disturbing the brakes. Then ECU and bracket, and engine fuse block. Then 'normal' Mini bits to remove.

[Spider]

It does sound like a worn friction plate to me, but it may also be the flex hose to the Slave collapsing internally too, effectively adding a damper of sorts to the slave. That may explain the variability of it's slip.

[Bat]

Hi,

I'd be checking the arm and shaft move freely in the wok as Nick said.

Moke's hose collapsing is equally as possible...

Cheers