12 replies to this topic

[Adam Johnson]

Hi all

My distributor is 180 degrees out. I am trying to correct this. I can remove the distributor turn it 180 degrees round but it will not go into the lugs. If I Spin back 180 degrees back it slips in perfectly. When it’s lined up correctly, I can feel the lugs biting as I can’t rotate the arm any more but I cannot slide it home. It] have wiggled and shouted at it but I can’t make it go in.

Am I missing a step or do I try and brute force it?

[DeadSquare]

Hi all

My distributor is 180 degrees out. I am trying to correct this. I can remove the distributor turn it 180 degrees round but it will not go into the lugs. If I Spin back 180 degrees back it slips in perfectly. When it’s lined up correctly, I can feel the lugs biting as I can’t rotate the arm any more but I cannot slide it home. It] have wiggled and shouted at it but I can’t make it go in.

Am I missing a step or do I try and brute force it?

NO  Brute  force.

 

The proper way to correct this is to tie a bit if string round a 2" long bolt, and screw it into the hole in the middle of the lugs in the bit that is in the engine.

 

When it is tight, twist the bolt as if to undo it, while pulling on it.  The bit in the engine will turn a bit and then pull out;  as soon as it starts to come out, stop twisting, pull out an inch, turn through 180 degrees and put it back in again.  Wedge the lug with a screwdriver and undo the bolt.

 

The string is in case you drop it .

 

If you haven't had your engine apart, it is more likely that somehow the actual distributor or the cap is wrong, and by changing all the sparkplug cables, one at a time, round two places, you should get the same result. but sometimes find that then, one of them is too short and has to be swapped for a longer one.

[Ethel]

As above you could have the drive dog incorrectly fitted.

 

Just in case: You know no 1 cylinder is nearest the radiator and the leads  go anticlockwise on the dizzy cap thus:

 

3 1

4 2

 

As you look at it.

 

It doesn't really matter, as long you can use the timing marks and the offset slot and pin on the drive align properly.

[Spider]

 

NO  Brute  force.

 

 

 

You're no fun.

[Adam Johnson]

Thanks guys.
As I am 180 out I will see it as;

2 4
1 3

With one on my right hand side as I look under the bonnet?

I have set static timing to 8 degrees btdc and use a light to set it just as the lamp comes on for no 1 cylinder. It turns over but won’t start. Should I be setting the static timing off no 1 still or should it now be off 4 if I am 180 out?

[Ethel]

As both 1 & 4 are at tdc at the same time it won't matter. Which is starting the power stroke depends on the valves, so you'd have to 180 out with the cam timing. The dizzy gives you 4 goes per engine cycle, so as long as it fires close enough to tdc to adjust you could just swap the leads.

 

If you're in danger of chasing yourself in circles: whip the rocker cover off, set the timing marks to TDC and look at the valves - the firing cylinder is between the compression and power strokes so there'll be no rocker movement  if you turn the engine either way. The other cylinder will be between exhaust and inlet so exhaust closing and inlet opening if you turn the engine the right way. Look to see where the rotor arm is pointing, that's where the plug lead for the  firing cylinder belongs.

 

You could avoid removing the cover by peering through the  oil filler and working out what the valves you can should be doing - i.e. cylinder 2 is a step ahead of 1, so starting the exhaust stroke.

[nicklouse]

you dont rotate the Dizzy you rotate the drive in the engine.

[Adam Johnson]

Thanks Ethel,

What do you mean by ‘no rocker movement’.

I think the arm is pointing down to the bottom left when the engine is TDC. I can wiggle the rockers on no1 but they are solid on no4. So I currently have the no1 cylinder lead at bottom left on the cap and have set the static at 8 degrees before TDC. Does this sound right?

I was running super rich with an aau needle so swapped to aab. It ran for 10 mins. Died and I can’t restart it. I have fuel in the carb, a spark and the plugs get wet. New ht leads, cap, ignition. Squired easy start at it and nothing changes which suggests my timing is suspect I think?

[Ethel]

That's no 1 firing.

 

I meant valves don't move as the engine turns- if the valve's closed the rocker will by wobbleable because of the tappet clearance. 

[Adam Johnson]

That's no 1 firing.
 
I meant valves don't move as the engine turns- if the valve's closed the rocker will by wobbleable because of the tappet clearance.

Thanks. So if I am pointing to bottom left my distributor arm is 180 degrees out. I still seem to have a timing problem them that I can’t figure out. I have rotated the distributor anti-clockwise until the test lamp goes out and then a small wiggle back clockwise again. I turn over but don’t fire up.

[Ethel]

Sounds correct, if not the usual orientation. Are the sparkplugs firing?

[nicklouse]

when you say it ran for 10 mins. did it run well or was it forced? and number one is at the rad end.

[Adam Johnson]

I have a spark.

It ran ok for 10 mins. Searched a bit but settled down.

Plugs are getting wet.

Easy start makes no difference.

A changed the plugs to an old set and it ran really bad for 10 seconds and then died and now it just turns over and does not fire again.