7 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

I am stripping down an MG Metro 1275 engine and have come to take off the timing gears.

The main gear won't pull off and before I start using any force wondered what was the best / safest method to remove it without doing any damage.

 

 

[nicklouse]

Look at it carefully it may just be the key that has moved slightly

[DeadSquare]

Is the "Main Gear", as you describe it,  the large cam sprocket ?

[Retroman]

They can be tight, tightish and then really tight

 

Pullers will be difficult to set to the right size / length and the chain is to contend with, and nut to damage the crank and cam ends / threads. We ahve a huge snap on set andI nver use them for taking Mini timing gears off.

 

More often than not 2 big screw drivers on opposite sides of the 1 gear

 

Prise both levers together you can 'feel' them move

 

Each wheel will only go so far before you have to do the other as the chain will only walk so far

 

You usually need to use the cam triangle bolt heads [behind the cam pulley] as lever point as it get further off

 

Just pulled a really badly built engine down which had both pulleys hammered on [idiot]

 

The only way was the WMD 3ft pry bar and a smaller one

 

When they are fitted its worth spending time dressing the pulleys / shafts / keys and keyways

 

You can sometimes see where the tight spot is

 

They should both go on and come off by hand, but be a firm fit

[DeadSquare]

Position the keyway upwards and remove the cam followers, the dizzy drive and the oil pump.

 

Slacken the cam nut until it is flush with the end of the cam.

 

Cover the nut with a piece of hard wood and give it a smart blow with a big hammer to drive the cam through the block.

 

If it moves, remove the nut and lock washer and carefully positioning  a brass drift, drive the cam further.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

WMD 3ft pry bar

Nice.

[Retroman]

Has to done....

 

The same muppet had built an engine with 3 bent conrods...one was walking the gudgeon pin about 1mm at TDC / BDC

 

On the pin centre the piston was out the bore 0.012" one side and 0.002" below the other...!!!

 

The little ends had been seriously heated to remove the gudgeon pins and then honed out for floating pins on forged 998 pistons

 

Just one horror story of many in one unit.

[JonnyAlpha]

They can be tight, tightish and then really tight

 

Pullers will be difficult to set to the right size / length and the chain is to contend with, and nut to damage the crank and cam ends / threads. We ahve a huge snap on set andI nver use them for taking Mini timing gears off.

 

More often than not 2 big screw drivers on opposite sides of the 1 gear

 

Prise both levers together you can 'feel' them move

 

Each wheel will only go so far before you have to do the other as the chain will only walk so far

 

You usually need to use the cam triangle bolt heads [behind the cam pulley] as lever point as it get further off

 

Just pulled a really badly built engine down which had both pulleys hammered on [idiot]

 

The only way was the WMD 3ft pry bar and a smaller one

 

When they are fitted its worth spending time dressing the pulleys / shafts / keys and keyways

 

You can sometimes see where the tight spot is

 

They should both go on and come off by hand, but be a firm fit

 

Two screwdrivers worked a treat