14 replies to this topic

[BaronVonchesto]

I have a standard single pin open diff that I'd like to upgrade the diff pin. How do I remove it? Do i have to take it to a machine shop to have it pressed out or can it be removed at home?

[Ivor Badger]

Take the crown wheel off and knock out the RO pin.

[DeadSquare]

Are you just wanting to upgrade the pin, or go to a cross-pin dif ?

[DeadSquare]

I have found a video of this in my bookmarks, but I can't get it to load.

 

Hopefully some clever clogs can find it and point you at it.

[BaronVonchesto]

Are you just wanting to upgrade the pin, or go to a cross-pin dif ?

 

just want to upgrade to a moly pin. of course will also inspect the planetary gears while at it. but for now, how do i get the ruddy diff pin out? Ivor said to knock out the RO pin. is that it?

So i use a tiny screwdriver and a hammer and just knock that pin out, then out comes the diff pin?

[imack]

Remove the crown wheel and you will see the hole the roll pin goes into. The roll pin hole is tapered, it comes out and the new one goes back in from the crown wheel side of the diff cage. I knock hem out with a parallel punch, you might struggle with a screwdriver. The diff pin the just slides out. I wouldn't advise reusing the planet gears.

[DeadSquare]

Type  "How to strip a classic Mini differential"  into google an go to the "Mid Canada Mini Group" video.

[Cooperman]

Buy yourself a set of pin punches rather than try to use a screwdriver. That way the job is very easy.

[Spider]

Type  "How to strip a classic Mini differential"  into google an go to the "Mid Canada Mini Group" video.

 

This one ?

 

 

Some notes in regards to this video.

 

You'll need to remove the bearing from the Crown Wheel in order to access the bolts. This isn't shown here. You can sometimes disassemble the bearing, removing the outer cup and balls from it, but if you are replacing the bearing, you'll need a bearing separator and a puller to get the bearings off.

 

This fella mentions a figure of 60 ft/lb for the bolts. The old ones (very old) were of this figure, however, the ones in yours will almost certainly be 45 ft/lb. These changed in the early 70's.

 

I would not recommend fitting loctabs on reassembly but using loctite. The new loctabs I've found are too soft and will cause a loss in bolt tension over time.

[DeadSquare]

 

Type  "How to strip a classic Mini differential"  into google an go to the "Mid Canada Mini Group" video.

 

This one ?

 

 

Some notes in regards to this video.

 

You'll need to remove the bearing from the Crown Wheel in order to access the bolts. This isn't shown here. You can sometimes disassemble the bearing, removing the outer cup and balls from it, but if you are replacing the bearing, you'll need a bearing separator and a puller to get the bearings off.

 

This fella mentions a figure of 60 ft/lb for the bolts. The old ones (very old) were of this figure, however, the ones in yours will almost certainly be 45 ft/lb. These changed in the early 70's.

 

I would not recommend fitting loctabs on reassembly but using loctite. The new loctabs I've found are too soft and will cause a loss in bolt tension over time.

 

 

Yes.

I thought is seemed user friendly.

It explained about the aforementioned roll-pin.

 

So I'm not the only one to be dissatisfied with the locktabs.  Silly me, I assembled my diff, marked the bolts, took them out, drilled them and wired them when Ioctite would have saved me a load of hassle.

[Cooperman]

+1 on the locktabs. Loctite is the way to go, but ensure that the bolts are torqued up tight and the threads are completely grease-free when applying the Loctite.

[BaronVonchesto]

Thanks, got my diff fully torn apart. Cant tell if my diff pin is worn or not, but I had already decided to change it and have ordered the moly pin. The inside and teeth of the planetary gears appear just fine, so i don't think I need to change them, but im wondering if I need to replace the thrust washers or if I can reuse them?

 

referring to the domed brass thrust washers with the tab.

Edited by BaronVonchesto, 24 April 2019 - 11:31 AM.

[DeadSquare]

You want to look at the back of the Planetary gears, not the thrust washer, to see if the washers need replacing.

 

The washers don't wear much, but "grit" in the oil that gets between the washer and the gear, gets pressed into the softer washer, where it the scratches and wears the back of the planetaries.

 

An excellent example of this sort of thing is the solid bush in the rear radius arm, which is exposed to a lot of 'crud' in daily use.  If there is play in the bearing there, most of it is due to wear on the shaft.

[johnR]

Check the cast diff casing behind the thrust washers as they can spin, eating into the casting. I swapped to a cross pin diff because that had happened to mine and the whole thing was cheaper than a new casing.

[Spider]

Thanks, got my diff fully torn apart. Cant tell if my diff pin is worn or not, but I had already decided to change it and have ordered the moly pin. The inside and teeth of the planetary gears appear just fine, so i don't think I need to change them, but im wondering if I need to replace the thrust washers or if I can reuse them?

 

referring to the domed brass thrust washers with the tab.

 

Although the planet gear bores may appear OK, they will have 'worn' with the old pin. Fitting a new pin will likely cause both to rapidly wear. I would suggest fitting new gears for this reason.

 

I would recommend fitting all new thrusts, not just the ones under the planet gears, but also those behind the Output shafts, unless you are lucky enough to have the brass ones.