13 replies to this topic

[tappouni]

Currently attempting to replace the Starter Motor on my '81 HL Auto - it's an inertia type with the solenoid mounted on the wing. I'm quite sure it's the original and I've been have issues with it sticking - solenoid just 'clicks' sometimes, but if I lift the bonnet and turn the square-ended bit of the starter motor by hand a few times, it fires up. So at least I'm quite sure that the motor is probably a little knackered. 

 

I've managed to loosen the top bolt, but the bottom bolt is proving to be a challenge - just can't really manage to get around it to turn it! A 14mm socket seemed too small, and 16mm too big, so I assume a 15mm is my best bet! Or I have a 5/8 spanner, just can't really get enough movement on it to actually get the bolt off. 

 

Does anyone have any tips on trying to remove it? 

[imack]

Its a 9/16" bolt

[Stevie W]

Hi,

If you remove the radiator grill, it makes accessing this bolt much easier. With the grill out of the way you can get a better swing on your spanner and actually see the bolt head!

Cheers, Steve.

[Rorf]

Using metric sockets you will end up rounding off the bolt heads! And you need a longish extension for the correct socket.

[tappouni]

Thanks for the quick responses, much appreciated! 

Its a 9/16" bolt

I see I see - I wasn't actually 100% sure so thanks for clarifying! 

 

Hi,

If you remove the radiator grill, it makes accessing this bolt much easier. With the grill out of the way you can get a better swing on your spanner and actually see the bolt head!

Cheers, Steve.

 

Thanks Steve - I had the grill off, and could see the bolt, but couldn't get much wiggle room unfortunately! 

 

Using metric sockets you will end up rounding off the bolt heads! And you need a longish extension for the correct socket.

 

I think I should definitely invest in some imperial sockets! 

 

Thanks for the advice anyways, I'll hopefully tomorrow get my hands on a more suitable socket set, and will report back with how the replacement of the starter motor goes! 

[mini-mad-mark]

Just to reinforce the point in case this was not clear from the answers above and you need to do anything else to the car (as you already started to use metric tools I assume this point is not known to you)

 

All (nearly all?) of the fixings on a mini (not just the starter) will require imperial tools. Metric tools wont fit and will damage the fixings and equally likely your knuckles.. 

 

(I stand to be corrected as I think there might be odds and sods maybe a brake pipe or two and some of the injection stuff especially on the last minis that are metric)

 

Also to note the size quoted by IMACK is the head size (and spanner designation) of 9/16" AF (Across flats) which is for a 3/8" thread

 

 

There is one size metric/AF that is very close (19mm and 3/4"AF) which you can maybe get away with but not worth it really

 

 

 

Regards

[mini-mad-mark]

Was already typing my reply when you posted sorry

[Cooperman]

You need a 9/16" AF imperial socket on a 10" extension bar and a ratchet handle. That way it is very easy.

 

Never try to work on a Mini unless you are using AF (i.e. Imperial size) tools.

[tappouni]

Just to reinforce the point in case this was not clear from the answers above and you need to do anything else to the car (as you already started to use metric tools I assume this point is not known to you)

 

All (nearly all?) of the fixings on a mini (not just the starter) will require imperial tools. Metric tools wont fit and will damage the fixings and equally likely your knuckles.. 

 

(I stand to be corrected as I think there might be odds and sods maybe a brake pipe or two and some of the injection stuff especially on the last minis that are metric)

 

Also to note the size quoted by IMACK is the head size (and spanner designation) of 9/16" AF (Across flats) which is for a 3/8" thread

 

 

There is one size metric/AF that is very close (19mm and 3/4"AF) which you can maybe get away with but not worth it really

 

 

 

Regards

 

 

Was already typing my reply when you posted sorry

 

 

You need a 9/16" AF imperial socket on a 10" extension bar and a ratchet handle. That way it is very easy.

 

Never try to work on a Mini unless you are using AF (i.e. Imperial size) tools.

 

Thanks all for these response - I think the metric tools will be going to rest! Most of the tools I've been using are just things I've owned anyway, unrelated to the car - thankfully haven't had any particularly complicated jobs so far, nor have I shredded any bolts (but hopefully with imperials, that won't be happened anyway!).

 

I'm not a mechanic by trade or anything like that, the Mini's a dream which finally became a reality after moving out of London (which I'm glad I did, both for the car and otherwise!) - I mean I'd been driving the family cars on and off, but never really had my own to look after...but it's been great fun learning with the Mini, and I very much appreciate all the advice on here! I've ordered the extension and some imperial sockets, so hopefully those will come soon and I can crack on with the starter replacement. 

[andyapanel]

I favour Teng hex drive sockets to preserve those corners and Metrinch can come in handy, too.

[Rorf]

I favour Teng hex drive sockets to preserve those corners and Metrinch can come in handy, too.

 

Metrinch spanners and sockets are excellent, especially when trying to loosen half rounded heads as they make contact with the flat side of the hex not the points. Always use them to undo brake bleed nipples and unions which are rusted up and crusty.

[tappouni]

I favour Teng hex drive sockets to preserve those corners and Metrinch can come in handy, too.

 

 

 

I favour Teng hex drive sockets to preserve those corners and Metrinch can come in handy, too.

 

Metrinch spanners and sockets are excellent, especially when trying to loosen half rounded heads as they make contact with the flat side of the hex not the points. Always use them to undo brake bleed nipples and unions which are rusted up and crusty.

 

Thanks for the recommendations! 

 

Starter motor is finally replaced now - the car starts up noticeably better    I got it from GSF Car Parts (never used them before) - their 'GSF Premium Parts' one turned out to be a reconditioned Lucas one...just thought I'd mention it incase anyone else needs a replacement. Worked out at £45 with one of their discount codes (well, paid £75 with a £30 surcharge which came back when I gave them the old one back)...but anyway, it's all sorted - thanks for all the advice on here! 

[DeadSquare]

Splendid news.

 

Thank you for letting us know that all is well.

[Stevie W]

Yes, well done for getting it all sorted.

Cheers, Steve.