15 replies to this topic

[mikal]

After some work done on my car the position of the steering wheel seems to be extra sensitive to the camber of the road.There is nothing loose and the car handles very well and direct but the steering wheel can be pointing straight ahead or slightly to the left or the right depending on the camber of the road. I've not experienced this before. The steering rack was replaced and new front hilo's installed. A wheel alignment was apparently done. Is this likely to be just an alignment issue? What parameter would cause this, castor, toe or camber? It's a '67 Mk1 with adjustable suspension. Thanks..

[Ethel]

My first thought on reading the title was loose steering rack U bolts or worn column to rack splines. Do check if you haven't already.

 

I'd say "all of the above" for the geometry and add wheel offset/scrub radius.

[mikal]

Thanks. Steering rack is secure and rack splines/ bolt all good. Wheel alignment required it seems.. 

[DeadSquare]

Are the track rod ends worn?

[imack]

Subframe tight, steering arms loose on hub carrier?

[viz139]

The problem with fully adjustable components is having the skill and equipment to set them all up right, its not simply a case of making the left side the same as the right side. For example as you alter the height you also change the camber and toe in/out. You need to set up the components in the right order and than after a settling period go back and check /adjust again.  Your description of the cars handling sounds like too much toe out maybe combined with too much negative camber.  Toe out will make the steering more responsive and is great on a flat race track but on public roads with camber surfaces it can cause the car to follow variations in the road surface. I would recommend a 4 wheel digital alignment but before you go in you need to know what settings you want them to set the car to depending on how you intend to use the car.

[hunterg30]

Not sure if these are on the mk1 but has it got the plastic strips fitted under the U bolts that hold the rack to the body these might be worn or the U bolts are not tightened up enough. Mine started to have different positions of the steering wheel and redoing these U bolts cured it

[mikal]

Thank you for your replies. Everything underneath is checked and in good/ new condition so I will get a full alignment done using the numbers I've used before for a fast road setup that worked well. The hilo's have been adjusted twice since fitment about 250 km ago. I'll recheck the height again to see if it's stablised (I'm aiming for 2 fingers between top of tyre and the guards). The hilo's should of settled by now? 

The steering rack bolts are tight, no movement there.

Edited by mikal, 30 July 2019 - 12:28 PM.

[nicklouse]

Thank you for your replies. Everything underneath is checked and in good/ new condition so I will get a full alignment done using the numbers I've used before for a fast road setup that worked well. The hilo's have been adjusted twice since fitment about 250 km ago. I'll recheck the height again to see if it's stablised (I'm aiming for 2 fingers between top of tyre and the guards). The hilo's should of settled by now? 
The steering rack bolts are tight, no movement there.

Two fingers means little as you can have very different pressures on the ground while having the same ride height.

The problem you have no is as you change the alignment it will also affect the corner weights. And here we have the basic issue with a multi seat car and adjustable every thing.

[mikal]

I'm just waiting for the new rubber cones up front to settle

Today I jacked up the front to check/ inspect everything underneath. Everything is fine but on letting it down and driving it for 10 km the front is sitting 1 cm higher again  How long/ how many km does it normally take for new cones to settle in?

[DeadSquare]

I'm just waiting for the new rubber cones up front to settle

Today I jacked up the front to check/ inspect everything underneath. Everything is fine but on letting it down and driving it for 10 km the front is sitting 1 cm higher again  

 

 

 

 

How long/ how many km does it normally take for new cones to settle in?

Like the proverbial piece of string........it all depends on:-

 

The sort of rubber used in the new doughnuts.

The profile of the Hi-Lo cone where it sits in the doughnut.

Whether driven on smooth motorways or bumpy lanes.

The weight of the occupants.

The ambient temperature probably has something to do with it.

 

It is something that you don't notice over months, rather than something that you notice over days.

[alex-95]

Have you solved this problem? If so what caused it? It sound like the same problem I've got at the moment. Fully adjustable suspension and set up by a mini specialist but the car just feels very twitchy.

[Rorf]

Have you solved this problem? If so what caused it? It sound like the same problem I've got at the moment. Fully adjustable suspension and set up by a mini specialist but the car just feels very twitchy.

 

Pray tell us what are your alignment figures? Camber angle, castor angle and toe out?

[alex-95]

 

Have you solved this problem? If so what caused it? It sound like the same problem I've got at the moment. Fully adjustable suspension and set up by a mini specialist but the car just feels very twitchy.

 

Pray tell us what are your alignment figures? Camber angle, castor angle and toe out?

 

Pretty sure on the front is 1 degree of camber, 4 degrees of castor, not sure on the toe but from what I've measured is very slight toe in (I think it should be toe out). Rear I think was 0 camber or a bit of negative and slight toe in.

[Rorf]

Camber is OK, but castor is too high - need to aim for 2.5 to 3.5 deg and you need toe out of at least 2mm.

 

Rear looks fine.

Edited by Rorf, 27 August 2019 - 07:22 PM.