12 replies to this topic

[bdean]

Anyone any experience? There seems to be a couple of options:

 

MED Timing Cover (https://www.med-engi...am-timing-cover) you need to re-use your timing plate or MED also sell an alloy timing plate.

 

RetroSport (http://www.dsnclassi...front-breather/) allows you to eliminate the timing plate?

 

If you add the alloy timing plate to the MED kit then the price of both are identical.

 

I'm running the Swiftune vernier duplex timing gear set.

 

 

[Chris.Williams]

I have the retrosport version, no leaks and looks beautiful.
I’ve also fitted one to a 67 Cooper S and to a 1275 ex race engine. Both no problems.
Worth the money

[imack]

I've got the MED version with the alloy timing plate and an old kent cams vernier duplex timing gears. Fits perfectly, no leaks and clears an 11 blade plastic fan with no fan spacers.

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Edited by imack, 09 August 2019 - 05:21 PM.

[alex-95]

Any more experiences with the MED cover? or not really any different to the Retrosport one (New link https://s-can.co.uk/...ing-cover-kits/). I have a Retrosport one on 1 engine and it's always leaked, I'm building another engine so wondering if the MED one is better or even just stick with the original steel one?

[DeadSquare]

The RetroSport plate and steel cover is probably the lightest combination.

 

I wonder if with "Gorilla Glue", you could save the weight of the bolts ?

[brivinci]

I have the Retro. The big difference is that with the Retro, you actually eliminate one gasket/potential place for leaks. Their setup combines the backing plate and the base of the timing cover. They also use a large o-ring to seal the cover. If you are running a timing chain tensioner, theirs fits that as well. 

[imack]

Engine's had a few refreshes since I posted in 2019, but the MED timing cover and alloy front plate has never leaked. I guess it's one disadvantage is that you can't run a tensioner.

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[alex-95]

The RetroSport plate and steel cover is probably the lightest combination.
 
I wonder if with "Gorilla Glue", you could save the weight of the bolts ?

 

Cheers, don’t mind how much it weighs, Could be made of Brass as long as it doesn’t leak! 😂

 

I have the Retro. The big difference is that with the Retro, you actually eliminate one gasket/potential place for leaks. Their setup combines the backing plate and the base of the timing cover. They also use a large o-ring to seal the cover. If you are running a timing chain tensioner, theirs fits that as well.

  
I was thinking about the extra gasket on the MED one, and didn’t realise about not being able to fit a tensioner which I was planning on fitting to this engine. Will probably go with a steel or retrosport one in that case.

Engine's had a few refreshes since I posted in 2019, but the MED timing cover and alloy front plate has never leaked. I guess it's one disadvantage is that you can't run a tensioner.

Thanks, that’s good to hear, I think it’s a slightly better design for not leaking than the retrosport one but was going to fit a tensioner.

I was planning on making a billet cover that’s the same as a standard steel one but don’t have the time, I’m surprised nobody’s made one yet…

[brivinci]

They are really the same in their ideas. The weak link will always be the stamped steel cover that usually gets overtightened, warped and leaks. Both these are precision made so the align brilliantly with the crank pulley and its seal. (always fit the pulley in place before tightening the steel timing cover to ensure its aligned) The Retro loses the backing plate and additional gasket...but I wonder how much either ever leak really. Provided the backing plate is flat, it should not be an issue. The real magic is in the precision lid and o-ring seal vs the stamped steel cover. 

I need a tensioner on mine so the answer was easy. Really happy with the Retro unit. I actually just reinstalled it all last night. Be sure to torque it all to spec and you should be golden!

[sonscar]

From my experience the weak part of A and B series covers is the front plate seems to always have stripped or semi stripped holes at the bottom.Steve.

[imack]

From my experience the weak part of A and B series covers is the front plate seems to always have stripped or semi stripped holes at the
bottom.Steve.

The aftermarket alloy front plates from MED/Swiftune etc use studs instead of the 1/4" bolts.

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[Gaz66]

I'm fancying the belt drive version of the MED setup but my experience with large O rings and machined slots does not fill me with confidence.
They are either too small or too big so your fighting it all the way.
Steve at MED says in the video... Use a bit of grease to hold it in, yeah, right Steve 😁

[brivinci]

I just installed my Retro cover and even after the large o-ring was out and cleaned, it went back in with zero issues of stretch and/or shrink. I was actually shocked as this is never the case. Id like to think that both these are using quality rubber here.