3 replies to this topic

[Shooter63]

I though I would post this generally instead of Pm to Chris (Moke Spider) just in case anybody else wanted to do the same
I've just imported (a few months ago) a mk1 from Portugal it's a basic hydro 850, I was going to dry it out and get a minisprint conversion done but after a few thoughts I've decided to keep the wet suspension and body as it is. The one thing I am going to change is the engine, that 850 lump just can't cut it I'm afraid so I'm going to go 1380 16v, but my plan is to keep as much as possible std including the magic wand/pudding stirrer gear stick ( sort of a sleeper type thing) but want to go to a rod change box, so really my question to Chris is
Have you got some pictures of a rod change in place,
Is it just a case of shortening the rods down and making a bracket
Will an LCB type exhaust ie twin pipe fit past the selector box ok
I presume a quick shift will work ok, if so what sort of throw do you end up with

I think that's enough questions for now

Shooter

[whistler]

I though I would post this generally instead of Pm to Chris (Moke Spider) just in case anybody else wanted to do the same
I've just imported (a few months ago) a mk1 from Portugal it's a basic hydro 850, I was going to dry it out and get a minisprint conversion done but after a few thoughts I've decided to keep the wet suspension and body as it is. The one thing I am going to change is the engine, that 850 lump just can't cut it I'm afraid so I'm going to go 1380 16v, but my plan is to keep as much as possible std including the magic wand/pudding stirrer gear stick ( sort of a sleeper type thing) but want to go to a rod change box, so really my question to Chris is
Have you got some pictures of a rod change in place,
Is it just a case of shortening the rods down and making a bracket
Will an LCB type exhaust ie twin pipe fit past the selector box ok
I presume a quick shift will work ok, if so what sort of throw do you end up with

I think that's enough questions for now

Shooter

Have you thought to ask John Guess as I believe he's done similar conversions.

[Spider]

Shooter,

 

I don't have much in the way of file photos here. The type of shifter set up you are after is from an earlier model Moke than I tend to play with these days.

 

I know of many who have done this conversion to their Minis, so it should all fit.

 

The Early Mokes from the start to 73 had Magic Wand Shifters, with those from late 68 on, when the all synchro box was introduced, being the same shift set up as a Mini. These changed in 74 when they went to Rod Shift and was unchanged until the end of 79.

 

The location and size of the hole in the tunnel for the shifter to come through was unchanged from the start of Moke production until the end of 79, so what I'm getting at here is if the shifter fitted through the floor in a Magic Wand Mini, then the set up from the Moke will also fit.

 

Here's a more or less stock Moke set up;-

 

 

and a similar set up, with LCBs fitted;-

 

 

The LCB set up is 'cosy' to say the least and as you can see in this photo, the exhaust does sit down a bit. So doable, but possibly not as ideal as it could be.

 

It pretty much is as you have described (shortening rods, making brackets).

 

The short shifters do indeed work with these set ups, but you'll likely need to lengthen the shifter itself. I use the Mini Spares Short Shifter and extend them by about 6" (these do end up longer than stock though) and these give a shift through of about 7 - 8". I'd suggest though, if you do want to fit a short shifter, do away with the rubber mounts for the shifter housing and fit a slide mount. I find they are just way too rubbery on soft mounts.

 

Another mod you can do here is with the steady bar (for the shifter), rather than weld on a 'stop' plate that the shifter housing bolts up to, is to thread a far length of the steady and fit nuts both sides of the shifter housing. This will give you some adjustment to tilt the shifter itself to a position that you like and works.

[Shooter63]

Shooter,
 
I don't have much in the way of file photos here. The type of shifter set up you are after is from an earlier model Moke than I tend to play with these days.
 
I know of many who have done this conversion to their Minis, so it should all fit.
 
The Early Mokes from the start to 73 had Magic Wand Shifters, with those from late 68 on, when the all synchro box was introduced, being the same shift set up as a Mini. These changed in 74 when they went to Rod Shift and was unchanged until the end of 79.
 
The location and size of the hole in the tunnel for the shifter to come through was unchanged from the start of Moke production until the end of 79, so what I'm getting at here is if the shifter fitted through the floor in a Magic Wand Mini, then the set up from the Moke will also fit.
 
Here's a more or less stock Moke set up;-
 

 
and a similar set up, with LCBs fitted;-
 

 
The LCB set up is 'cosy' to say the least and as you can see in this photo, the exhaust does sit down a bit. So doable, but possibly not as ideal as it could be.
 
It pretty much is as you have described (shortening rods, making brackets).
 
The short shifters do indeed work with these set ups, but you'll likely need to lengthen the shifter itself. I use the Mini Spares Short Shifter and extend them by about 6" (these do end up longer than stock though) and these give a shift through of about 7 - 8". I'd suggest though, if you do want to fit a short shifter, do away with the rubber mounts for the shifter housing and fit a slide mount. I find they are just way too rubbery on soft mounts.
 
Another mod you can do here is with the steady bar (for the shifter), rather than weld on a 'stop' plate that the shifter housing bolts up to, is to thread a far length of the steady and fit nuts both sides of the shifter housing. This will give you some adjustment to tilt the shifter itself to a position that you like and works.

Cheers Chris your a legend