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Starting After Prolonged Period Of Non-Use


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#1 Bass Man

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 08:56 AM

Hi

 

I would say 'storage' but that would not be true, the car was parked 5 years ago then not touched until recently.

 

I plan to take the engine out to give the engine bay a good cleaning and paint but thought I would make sure it still turns over before I do this.

 

It has been sat for 5 years, untouched, what should I do before turning over for the first time?



#2 DeadSquare

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 09:10 AM

Hi

 

I would say 'storage' but that would not be true, the car was parked 5 years ago then not touched until recently.

 

I plan to take the engine out to give the engine bay a good cleaning and paint but thought I would make sure it still turns over before I do this.

 

It has been sat for 5 years, untouched, what should I do before turning over for the first time?

 

 

Cross your fingers.



#3 DeadSquare

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 09:24 AM

 The obvious things:-     Fresh petrol, water and a battery, and  If the brakes still work, make sure that the clutch is free and get someone to tow you in top gear for a few hundred yard to check that nothing is jammed and on the way back,  see if it will light up.



#4 Steve220

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 10:03 AM

Check it turns over by hand before you put it back in. Fresh oil, turn it over without spark and fuel to build oil pressure then start!

#5 ukcooper

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 01:47 PM

who want to know the best way to get oil pressure to the crankshaft after the car has been stored for a period of time. It really takes only a few months for almost all of the oil to drain out of the oil pump. This situation can cause the pump to lose its prime, and then it will not be able to create the suction necessary to pull the oil from the pick up to the pump. The crankshaft would then have to run dry for some time, which can cause catastrophic damage to the bearings.

The solution is simple: all you need to do is re-prime the oil pump. I know you are saying “Isn’t that buried deep in the engine?” The answer is “yes”, but the pump is readily accessible from the outside. If you follow these steps, you will have oil pressure in just a few seconds.

Step 1 Remove the spark plugs from the engine and put transmission into fourth gear.

Step 2 Remove the banjo fitting (large bolt) or oil cooler hose that goes into the block at the upper end of the external metal oil pipe that passes behind the distributor. Then loosen the other end of the pipe at the oil filter housing, and swing the pipe away from block .

Step 3 Using a small funnel, start to put oil into the block at the threaded hole where the banjo bolt was removed at the upper end of the metal oil pipe. While putting the oil in the block, push the car backwards. Even though it is still in 4th gear, it will be easy to push with no engine compression. This action will draw the oil into the block and directly into the oil pump to prime it. Repeat this action a few times and then replace the banjo bolt and tighten both ends of the oil pipe, using fresh copper washers (AED0172) at the banjo bolt end.

Step 4 Take the car out of gear and make sure it is in neutral. If the oil level is satisfactory on the dip stick, you can now start to crank the motor over to achieve oil pressure. When you see signs of oil pressure either by the gauge moving or the light going out, you can stop, put the spark plugs back in, and reconnect the ignition wires.If you don't have an indication of oil pressure after 30 seconds of cranking, check all the fittings that had been loosened to make sure they are tight. Try again until you have pressure.

Step 5 Once you know you have oil pressure again, start the motor. We like to see close to 90 PSI at the gauge when first starting the motor cold. As the engine temp goes up we like to have 40 PSI minimum at idle and somewhere near 70 PSI at 3,000 RPM and higher. These are just guidelines and are ideal settings for a fresh engine.

 

by Mike Kearney
Seven’s Service Shop Manager



#6 Dutchdave's25

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 02:18 PM

i prefer to take the oil pressure switch out and pump oil in the engine with a classic oil pump, taking that oil pipe off is a pain and not needed. :)



#7 mini13

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 02:44 PM

depends, i'd say the realy bolt and banjo pipe, or an oil coller pipe is easier to get at to remove, on spi era engines though witht he olive, I would definatly leave it alone, MPI's obviusly you dont have a choice.



#8 Dusky

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 03:19 PM

Imho lots is scaremongering. I ve stripped engines after 20 years of standing still. Plenty of oil in the bearings and pump . I only lubricate the bores, then spin it up on the starter.

#9 Bass Man

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 03:28 PM

Lots of useful info, the car is 1983 998, I'm thinking to deffo oil the bores a little and let it sit a while, then without spark plugs to roll along for a little in 4th then turn on starter until the oil light goes off.

 

As I said, not actually looking to start at the moment just to make sure it is still turning over.

 

Thanks all



#10 Ethel

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 09:12 AM

Sounds reasonable. I'd say seized piston rings would be your biggest worry so oil or diesel through the plug holes and allow time to seep in. Then use minimum force to turn the engine back and forth 'til it'll do a full turn. Beware there's a lot of inertia in a rolling car, even a Mini. If you can turn it by hand or even a jacked up wheel while it's in gear that'd be gentler if the rings do hit any resistance.

#11 DeadSquare

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 11:13 AM

If you are going to use oil, use power steering fluid or an ISO32 hydraulic oil.

 

They have a most amazing ability to creep into places, even round stones to loosen them in concrete,  but a squirt of WD40 should do, if it is needed.



#12 Bass Man

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 11:57 AM

I have the oil I use on my air tools, would this do the job?



#13 DeadSquare

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 12:09 PM

I have the oil I use on my air tools, would this do the job?

 

IMHO.  That would be third choice after ISO32 or WD 40.

 

No matter what oil you use , the longer it soaks, the better.


Edited by DeadSquare, 23 August 2019 - 01:52 PM.


#14 Cooperman

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 01:49 PM

I have used 3-in-1 oil down the bores and left it a few hours. Then turn it a bit each way finally giving it a few full turns.
After that, with fesh 20w50 oil and a ne filter connect up a battery and spin it over with the plugs out until you get oil pressure. Fit new plugs and fire it up. It will smoke a bit but soon clear.

#15 Bass Man

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Posted 24 August 2019 - 09:02 PM

I used jack oil in the end, overnight.

 

I put it in fourth and rotated the wheel, the wheel turned with a little resistance but it wasn't turning the engine, tried other gears, exactly the same. Turned the engine from the crank and it is turning OK, turns nice and smooth.

 

Any ideas why it isn't rotating when I turn the wheels in gear, clutch?






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